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OoKv\        t.  . 


BY  HIS  DAUGHTER 

MRS.   KATIE    E.   BL.OOD 

PARKERSBURG,  W.  TA. 


OF  THE 

UNIVERSITY 

OF 


Associated  Publishers  of  American  Records 

New  Haven,  Conn. 

1907 


UNIVERSITY 

OF 


ttyt  plains  tn  tlj?  $tartftr 


ARCH  15,  1849.  Our 
final  arrangements 
were  made  yesterday, 
and  all  were  ready 
this  morning  to  start 
on  our  long  trip  to 
California.  Our  fam- 
ilies and  friends  watch  us  from  the 
Court  House,  as  we  wend  our  way 
down  the  hill  towards  the  river,  and 
at  the  last  bend  we  wave  our  last 
adieu  to  our  loved  ones.  The  day  is 
rather  cold  with  threatening  clouds, 
and  with  heavy  hearts  and  feverish 
hopes,  we  ride  on.  Our  party  is 
small,  but  many  will  join  on  our  way 
and  at  Independence,  hundreds  will 
be  on  the  trail. 

Our  company  consists  of  Thomas 
S.  Lowry,  Jarius  Palmer,  John  Rob- 
erts, James  Reynolds  and  Henry  A. 
Wood.  I  ride  my  bay  horse,  two 
others  ride,  and  two  drive  in  wag- 
gons, which  carry  provisions  and 
clothes,  and  such  things  as  we  need. 

We  travelled  sixteen  miles  to 
Weaver  on  French  Broad  River, 
arriving  in  a  very  hard  rain,  and  it 
was  with  difficulty  that  arrangements 
were  made  for  the  night.  Roberts 
and  myself  slept  in  one  waggon  while 
the  rest  were  kindly  furnished  with  a 
comfortable  bed  in  the  house.  This 
evening  I  was  initiated  into  the  mys- 
teries of  washing  dishes.  I  fancied 
I  did  the  thing  up  "brown." 

March  i6th.  The  next  day  the 
rain  stopped  and  we  left  camp  and 
travelled  as  far  as  Bartlett's,  twenty- 
three  miles,  when  the  waggon  broke 
down  and  had  to  be  repaired.  W'ood 
and  I  walked  over  the  bridge  to  the 
Warm  Springs  and  I  was  surprised  to 
find  the  water  quite  warm.  The 
Warm  Springs  are  situated  in  a 
healthy  and  romantic  valley  of  the 
French  Broad  River,  and  are  owned 
by  Thos.  Patton,  Esq.,  who  has  fitted 
up  an  extensive  establishment  for  the 
accommodation  of  invalids,  who  are 
generally  restored  to  their  wanted 
health  by  the  medicinal  waters. 

The  next  day  we  left  Bartlett's  at 
seven  o'clock  and  drove  to  McMa- 


honey  over  very  bad  roads.  The  day 
was  very  wet  and  we  were  put  to  our 
wit's  end  in  setting  our  tent  and  cook- 
ing supper  in  the  rain.  Reynolds  was 
taken  quite  sick  but  soon  recovered. 
The  falling  of  the  rain  was  dreary, 
and  our  thoughts  wander  back  to 
those  sitting  around  the  home  fire. 
Drove  twenty-three  miles  today. 

March  1 8th,  Sunday.  Early  this 
morning,  we  broke  camp  and  drove 
to  Miller's.  The  roads  were  very 
muddy  and  fatigued  our  horses  more 
so  this  day  than  any  preceding  one. 
Passed  through  a  fine  country,  some 
highly  cultivated.  Crossed  French 
Broad  River  for  the  last  time  at 
Hayes  Ferry.  Drove  twenty-three 
miles. 

The  next  day,  we  drove  all  day, 
arriving  bv  night  at  Dr.  Ramsey's  at 
the  Junction  of  French  Broad  and 
Holsten  Rivers,  where  they  form  the 
Tennessee.  We  were  kindly  fur- 
nished with  rooms  by  the  Doctor  and 
treated  with  the  greatest  kindness. 
The  roads  are  muddy  and  with  diffi- 
culty did  we  drive  twenty-four  miles 

Late  Tuesday  morning  we  broke 
camp,  cooking  breakfast  being  in- 
trusted to  the  most  skillful,  as  the 
rain  caused  the  fire  to  smoke.  The 
coffee  was  good,  but  the  bread  was 
poor.  The  oven  will  not  heat  well 
and  put  us  once  more  to  our  wit's  end, 
but  we  arrived  in  Knoxville  at  night. 
We  intend  to  remain  until  some  ar- 
rangement can  be  effected  to  take  the 
Company  by  water.  I  sold  my  horse 
to  Col.  John  Davis  for  Forty-four 
Dollars  in  gold  and  made  mv  arrange- 
ments to  go  by  water  in  a  flat  boat  to 
St.  Louis,  while  the  Company  are  de- 
termined to  go  by  steamboat. 

All  day  Wednesday  we  remained  in 
Knoxville  endeavoring  to  sell  the 
waggon  and  horses,  finally  succeed- 
ing in  disposing  of  Roberts'  horse,  the 
Company  remaining  in  the  house  fid- 
dling away  the  time.  On  Thursday 
we  divided  in  shares  our  equipment, 
my  share  being  a  horse,  bridle  and 
saddle,  which  I  immediately  sold  for 
Fifty  Dollars.  I  then  went  on  board 


nf  a  <£0tti 


in 


of  boat,  "Sam  Martin."  I  formed  a 
mess  with  Haines,  Mason  and  Atkin- 
son, of  Jonesboro,  East  Tennessee. 
There  are  other  young  men  on  board 
bound  for  California.  One  Hundred 
and  Nine  miles  from  home. 

March  23rd.  Friday.  Our  boat 
has  been  running  down  stream  at  the 
rate  of  fifteen  miles  an  hour.  The 
country  is  beautiful, — not  as  level  as 
I  had  anticipated,  only  small  flat 
pieces  of  land  along  the  shore.  The 
boat  is  quite  crowded,  chiefly  men 
with  the  gold  fever. 

Arrived  in  Chattanooga  early  Sat- 
urday morning  and  went  on  shore  in 
hopes  of  seeing  Thomas  Durin,  but 
was  disappointed.  While  the  steamer 
is  loading,  many  passengers  walk  in- 
to town  to  stretch  their  legs  and  are 
hurried  back  by  the  steamer's  whistle, 
signalling  her  intention  to  leave  the 
wharf.  We  made  a  fine  run  but 
"Cassindra"  outstripped  us. 

On  Sunday  morning  we  arrived  at 
Whitesburg,  and  I  was  agreeably  sur- 
prised to  find  my  friend,  Thomas 
Durin  where  he  was  preparing  to 
leave  for  home.  With  much  regret, 
I  bade  him  farewell  and  I  could  not 
but  shed  a  tear  as  he  was  the  last  of 
the  family  I  would  see.  How  many 
thousands  of  miles  I  shall  travel  be- 
fore seeing  those  clear  faces  again. 

We  reached  Decatur  having  made 
a  steady  run  of  fifteen  miles  an  hour. 
We  were  there  compelled  to  take  cars 
on  railroad  drawn  by  horses.  Some 
Companies  have  their  horses  on 
board,  so  they  go  with  them.  After 
much  dickering  and  confusion,  we 
leave  Decatur  and  travel  at  the  rate  of 
six  miles  an  hour.  The  railroad  is 
very  slow  after  the  drifting  of  the 
steamboat.  We  arrived  at  Tuscum- 
bia,  a  beautiful  place.  It  has  mam- 
advantages  of  making  a  large  busi- 
ness city.  We  put  up  for  the  night 
at  the  Franklin  House.  The  Land- 
lord is  accommodating.  We  spend 
Tuesday  in  Tuscumbia.  awaiting  the 
ai  rival  of  a  boat  to  carry  us  to  the 
mouth  of  Tennessee  River.  The  boat 
does  not  come  until  three  o'clock 


Wednesday.  On  Thursday,  we  left 
on  the  steamboat.  "Courtland,"  a 
beautiful  boat  equal  in  size  and  ac- 
commodation to  any  eastern  boat. 
The  officers  are  very  gentlemanly, 
and  the  fare  is  as  good  as  any  I  ever 
knew  on  board  a  boat.  The  landing 
is  one  of  the  most  picturesque  places 
I  ever  saw  and  the  immense  ware- 
house is  not  surpassed  by  anything 
in  the  world.  It  is  built  on  the  point 
of  hill  and  is  a  very  durable  building. 
I  lost  Ten  Dollars  in  gold  this  even- 
ing. 

March  3Oth.  Friday.  Made  but 
little  distance  at  first,  owing  to  the 
great  quantity  of  cotton  on  board. 
There  was  much  gambling  on  board. 
The  country  through  which  we 
passed  was  very  fine,  but  unimproved. 
The  rich  river  bottoms  are  much  neg- 
lected, perhaps  because  of  their  lia- 
bility to  overflow,  the  banks  being 
quite  low. 

Saturday,  we  gently  sail  on. 
March  went  out  very  pleasantly  in- 
deed. With  but  four  exceptions  we 
have  had  fine  weather  to  travel  in. 
The  boat  took  in  two  hundred  tons 
of  pig  metal  from  the  furnace  of 
Stackal.  I  walked  about  two  miles 
to  the  place,  and  I  was  surprised  to 
find  the  richest  kind  of  fossil  ore,  and 
quite  convenient.  This  makes  a  very 
fine  metal. 

Sunday,  April  ist.  A  beautiful 
day  but  a  little  cold,  fires  being  quite 
comfortable.  We  were  running  at 
the  rate  of  fifteen  miles  an  hour,  while 
the  water  was  nearly  over  the  guard. 
Reaching  Paducah  as  a  boat  from 
Cincinnati  was  coming  in,  I  immedi- 
ately, on  her  landing,  engaged  pas- 
sage for  all  of  our  men,  Ne  Plus 
Ultra,  at  $3.50  to  St.  Louis.  There 
are  nearly  one  hundred  and  fifty  per- 
sons from  Boston  on  board,  who  are 
bound  for  California. 

The  next  morning  we  awoke  to 
find  ourselves  at  the  wharf  in  St 
Louis.  After  dressing  and  break- 
fasting, I  set  out  with  Stover  and 
Harris  to  find  lodgings,  which  \\v 
in  getting  after  a  great 


to  Ity  Jlariftr 


length  of  time,  at  the  United  States 
Hotel,  a  very  good  house.  In  the 
afternoon,  we  visited  the  United 
States  Arsenal  and  bought  knives  and 
carbines  for  our  journey.  We  need 
these  to  protect  ourselves  and  for  pro- 
curing food.  In  the  evening  we  went 
to  the  circus,  and  saw  Dan  Rice  pre- 
form the  clown  in  a  very  creditable 
manner.  The  enclosure  was  crowd- 
ed, and  seemed  the  resort  for  those 
awaiting  the  making  up  of  parties  to 
go  West. 

Wednesday  was  a  wet  day,  raining 
very  hard.  I  remained  in  my  room 
and  wrote  letters  and  otherwise 
busied  myself  with  mending  in  prep- 
aration for  a  long  journey,  it  being 
quite  restful. 

On  Thursday,  Harris  &  self  start- 
ed out  and  made  our  purchases  of 
equipment,  but  did  not  finish.  To- 
morrow, we  must  try  again.  In  the 
afternoon,  we  went  out  to  the  finest 
portion  of  the  city,  and  were  much 
disappointed  in  finding  everything  in 
a  filthy  condition.  No  care  is  taken 
of  streets  or  buildings.  Everyone  is 
on  a  run,  and  scarcely  turns  around 
to  observe  a  fine  building.  Much 
fever  is  exhibited,  and  interest  in  the 
emigrants  who  purchase  fire  arms, 
etc.,  I  was  delighted  on  Friday,  when 
Mason  very  unexpectedly  dropped  in- 
to our  rooms  having  arrived  the  night 
before  at  midnight. 

I  had  my  daguerreotype  taken  to 
put  in  a  gold  locket  to  send  home  to 
my  sister  Elizabeth. 

On  Saturday,  we  bought  the  rest 
of  the  articles  needed  for  the  journey. 
I  have  packed  them  in  leather  cases, 
tying  the  ends  together,  and  we  rolled 
the  blankets  in  three  bundles.  We 
expect  to  cook  out  doors  and  sleep  in 
waggons.  I  have  a  swinging  bed 
and  hope  to  be  comfortable  at  night. 
We  form  mess  with  Dr.  Stone  and 
WTm.  Taylor  on  equal  shares.  Taylor 
will  come  up  the  river  in  a  few  days, 
and  soon  our  travels  will  commence 
in  real  earnest,,  as  we  have  arranged 
our  watches.  All  is  work  and  ex- 
citement and  proving  ourselves  men, 


leaving  family  and  friends  to  go 
amongst  the  wilds.  Who  can  tell 
which  or  how  many  will  fall  by  dis- 
ease, an  Indian  arrow  or  the  several 
dangers  that  will  beset  our  path,  but 
to  the  West  we  have  set  our  faces, 
and  to  the  West  we  go.  We  have 
agreed  with  the  clerk  of  boat  "Em- 
bassy" to  carry  us  to  Independence 
for  Seven  Dollars,  each. 

Sunday,  April  8th.  I  went  to 
church  and  heard  the  Rev.  Mr.  Lyon 
preach  at  the  Westminster  Church, 
and  enjoyed  it  very  much.  He  is  a 
very  able  minister.  In  the  afternoon, 
we  walked  out  to  the  camp  of  Bun- 
combe (N.  C.)  boys,  and  on  to  the 
Camp  Spring  (Tennessee),  where  we 
found  many  people  collected  to  have 
a  dance.  The  band  was  playing  and 
all  was  bright  and  gay.  We  watched 
them  dance  one  waltz  and  then  left 
the  wretched  place.  St.  Louis  is  a 
wicked  place,  there  appears  to  be  no 
control  over  any  young  man  who 
whoops  and  halloas  on  the  streets  on 
Sunday  to  his  heart's  content.  St. 
Louis  is  increasing  rapidly  in  popula- 
tion and  bad  morals. 

Monday  was  wet  but  we  went  on 
board  steamboat  bound  for  St.  Jos- 
eph. The  boat  is  new  but  badly  man- 
aged, the  crew  very  unaccommodat- 
ing, and  there  is  much  grumbling 
amongst  the  passengers.  It  was  with 
difficulty  that  our  luggage  was  put  on 
board  in  the  hard  rain. 

Left  St.  Louis  about  sunset  and 
passed  up  the  river  about  twenty 
miles  where  we  land  to  await  day- 
light, when  we  again  go  slowly  up 
the  river.  The  boat  is  crowded 
with  emigrants,  which  makes  it  very 
unpleasant.  All  are  looking  into  the 
future,  and  many  are  thinking  of  the 
great  hardships  to  be  endured  to- 
gether. 

The  next  morning,  Tuesday,  many 
complain  of  sickness  and  giddiness. 
Cholera  has  broken  out  and  has 
cauesd  great  excitement.  There  were 
two  cases,  one  being  very  ill,  and  on 
Thursday,  one  young  man  of  the  Vir- 
ginia Company  died.  So  full  of 


nf  a 


in 


bright  hopes  never  to  be  realized,  but 
buried.  At  dark,  we  stopped  at  a 
wood  yard  to  bury  the  dead.  A  beau- 
tiful green  spot  high  on  the  hill  be- 
tween two  small  budding  trees,  was 
selected  to  bury  the  poor  fellow. 
Amongst  strangers  he  died,  and  in  a 
strange  country  we  buried  him. 
Quite  a  gloom  was  cast  over  us  as 
the  funeral  services  of  the  Episcopal 
Church  were  read.  As  we  hear  the 
impressive  words,  greatly  are  we  im- 
pressed. 

Friday  morning,  we  passed  Jeffer- 
son City,  the  capital  of  Missouri.  It 
has  not  a  thriving  appearance,  al- 
though a  very  westerly  town. 
Neither  is  it  as  large  as  I  anticipated. 
The  Capitol  stands  on  an  eminence 
near  the  river's  edge  and  is  a  very  fine 
building.  Being  built  of  stone  with 
single  palisades,  it  has  more  the  ap- 
pearance of  strength  and  durability, 
rather  than  beauty.  We  also  passed 
Boonville,  the  intermediate  point  of 
the  land  route  to  Independence. 

The  sick  seem  better  and  the  ex- 
citement and  dread  of  cholera  is  sub- 
siding. 

The  nights  are  cool,  and  on  Friday 
night  it  was  very  cold.  In  the  morn- 
ing, all  on  board  were  complaining  of 
bad  colds.  In  the  midst  of  com- 
plaints, arose  cries  of  alarm  of  fire. 
The  stove  which  was  red  hot  and 
heating  to  its  utmost,  fell  over,  and 
the  men  with  great  presence  of  mind 
threw  water  and  wet  blankets  on  it 
and  thus  extinguished  the  fire  and 
saved  the  boat.  I  am  not  very  well. 

On  Saturday  afternoon,  the  piston 
of  the  engine  broke,  which  caused 
a  delay  for  repairs  of  three  hours. 

Sunday,  April  i5th.  Just  one 
month  since  I  left  home,  and  how 
many  things  have  I  seen,  how  many 
strange  faces,  and  how  my  thoughts 
wander  back  to  home  and  all  that  the 
word  means — so  much  that  is  dear. 
Alas !  my  face  is  turned  to  the  West, 
and  Fate,  sad  Fate  pushes  me  along, 
almost  imperceptibly,  to  wealth  or  an 
untimely  death  among  strangers,  and 
perhaps  an  inveterate  foe  in  the  per- 


son of  an  Indian.  How  thankful 
should  we  be  that  Providence  has 
allowed  us  to  live  this  long.  An  un- 
profitable life  it  has  been,  but  we  can 
turn  to  His  holy  word  and  find  peace 
for  the  troubled  soul.  Many  passen- 
gers forget  the  beautiful  Sabbath  and 
are  drinking  with  noise  as  if  they 
were  not  accountable  beings.  We 
passed  a  beautiful  prairie  this  morn- 
ing, which  was  dotted  here  and  there 
with  a  little  white  shanty,  the  home  of 
a  western  pioneer. 

On  Monday,  we  went  at  a  good 
rate  and  passed  a  small  town  named 
Brownsville.  Tuesday,  we  arrived 
at  Independence,  landing  in  the  morn- 
ing, and  we  were  the  whole  day  in 
getting  out  our  goods,  and  making 
camp  on  the  brink  of  the  river.  Cook- 
ing supper  seemed  quite  a  difficult 
matter  and  night  found  us  very  tired. 
I  spent  a  very  uncomfortable  night, 
but  one  watch  was  kept  as  thieves  are 
the  only  expected  visitors. 

On  Wednesday,  we  moved  our 
camp  one-half  a  mile  beyond  town  by 
the  Santa  Fe  road.  Our  waggons 
looked  very  trim  and  the  mules  in 
fine  condition.  My  horse  has  been 
feeling  fine  for  the  long  rest.  I  went 
into  Independence  in  the  afternoon 
and  found  it  a  great  place  of  business. 
It  is  the  trading-place  of  the  Mexi- 
cans and  hunters,  who  meet  here 
every  Spring  and  exchange  their 
wares,  and  purchase  goods.  The 
town  is  full  of  waggon  shops  and 
from  these  is  done  a  great  business, 
and  I  am  told  much  money  is  made. 
The  town  has  a  population  of  fifteen 
hundred  people.  Independence  is  to 
be  our  starting  point  and  we  will 
spend  a  week  in  preparing  to  make 
our  journey.  We  formed  our  com- 
pany and  framed  our  Constitution. 
Stone,  Taylor.  Harris  and  myself 
agreed  to  furnish  Atkinson  with  an 
outfit.  We  bought  eight  mules  at 
Sixty  Dollars  each  and  were  much 
pleased  with  our  bargain.  The  mules 
were  broke  to  harness  every  day, 
affording  us  much  amusement  as  on- 
lookers. They  are  very  stubborn 


Arrn00  tij? 


to  it}?  farifir 


and  it  seems  a  question  which  two 
would  pull  together.  Finally  they 
mate,  but  not  so  the  four.  Each 
waggon  is  drawn  b'y  four  mules.  The 
forward  ones  kick  the  back  couple 
and  cause  great  commotion.  This 
delay  is  annoying. 

The  waggons  have  been  overhauled 
and  flour  bought  and  packed.  We 
await  here  until  Wednesday. 

May  2nd.  All  was  in  readiness  to 
start.  I  rode  my  horse  most  of  the 
day,  but  took  my  turn  at  the  four-in- 
hand  late  in  the  afternoon,  driving  six 
miles  to  Rice's  where  corn  was 
bought.  It  is  a  most  beautiful  and 
fertile  country.  For  miles  around  as 
far  as  the  eye  can  reach  over  the 
plains,  is  a  waving  mass  of  green,  dot- 
ted here  and  there  with  ploughed 
fields  and  cottages, — a  beautiful  sight 
for  man  to  behold. 

We  remained  in  our  comfortable 
camp  all  day  Thursday,  doing  little 
jobs  and  quite  enjoying  the  camp  life. 
We  take  turns  in  caring  for  the  stock 
and  cooking,  and  at  night  each  unroll 
their  blankets,  the  waggons  are  placed 
on  each  side  of  the  fire,  and  the  mules 
are  tied  together,  three  feet  apart. 
Only  one  man  keeps  a  four-hour 
watch  during  the  night. 

We  expected  to  start  on  Friday, 
but  awoke  to  find  our  camp  almost 
deluged  in  water  by  the  night's  rain. 
The  rain  continued  and  rendered  the 
cooking  of  breakfast  and  duties  most 
difficult  and  disagreeable. 

We  settled  with  the  Treasurer,  and 
found  that  each  man's  share  is 
$186.66,  the  whole  outfit  costing 
$1 1 20.00. 

On  Saturday,  I  went  with  Taylor 
to  town  and  bought  several  things. 
Received  several  letters,  one  from 
James  Potter,  of  Penna.  I  became 
very  unwell,  caused  from  eating  a 
very  hearty  dinner  in  town.  The 
premonitory  symptoms  of  cholera 
made  their  appearance,  so  Dr.  Stone 
gave  me  a  great  quantity  of  lauda- 
num, but  without  good  results. 

I  felt  better  on  Monday,  but  much 
alarmed,  as  there  have  been  six 


deaths  in  surrounding  camps  from 
cholera.  The  dread  disease  has 
surely  taken  a  lodgment,  and  all 
thoughts  are  turned  to  checking  it  in 
camps. 

The  next  day  I  felt  better,  so  we 
broke  camp  and  drove  three  miles, 
where  we  waited  until  Taylor  drove 
up  with  the  other  waggons.  I  am 
unable  to  do  anything,  but  the  Doc- 
tor thinks  I  will  get  well  with  due 
care,  but  I  feel  very  weak. 

When  Taylor  came,  we  drove  three 
miles  to  a  beautiful  spring  where  we 
-set  camp,  and  we  remained  until  all 
was  ready  to  start.  These  many  de- 
lays are  annoying. 

On  Friday,  May  loth,  we  struck 
camp  and  drove  three  miles  to  Little 
Blue,  where  we  again  sat  down  to 
wait  until  Saturday  for  Means  and 
Wilson.  I  rode  about  two  miles.  I 
bought  a  Comanche  pony  for  $60.00 
in  order  that  one  might  ride  her. 

On  Saturday,  Taylor  and  Harris 
went  to  Independence  in  the  morning 
to  purchase  articles  and  get  our  let- 
ters, as  this  was  the  last  chance  of 
receiving  any  until  we  reach  the  mine. 
I  sent  by  Taylor  many  letters,  and  he 
returned  in  the  evening  with  a  num- 
ber from  home. 

The  Buncome  Co.,  the  Carson  Co. 
and  the  Wilson  Co.  passed  this  even- 
ing, and  we  followed  them  in  the 
early  morning. 

Sunday,  May  I2th.  We  rose  very 
early  this  morning  and  found  Taylor 
very  sick.  We  regret  breaking  camp 
and  following  train,  while  Taylor  is 
in  this  condition.  Reynolds,  of  Bun- 
combe was  also  taken  ill  with  cholera, 
and  we  fear  he  is  very  ill. 

Tuesday,  May  I4th.  We  made  an 
early  start  in  a  very  heavy  rainstorm, 
and  when  out  a  mile,  the  tongue  of 
my  waggon  was  broken  through  by 
the  stubbornest  of  the  mules,  and  we 
were  compelled  to  unhitch  and  make 
a  new  tongue,  but  caught  up  with  the 
camp  at  night.  Taylor  is  very  ill 
with  the  cholera.  I  began  to  feel 
very  unwell  in  the  evening  so  Sun- 
day we  remained  in  camp  as  so  many 


a 


in 


were  ill.  The  Kentucky  Company 
joined  us. 

Wednesday,  May  i6th  we  crossed 
the  line  of  the  U.  States.  We  drove 
12  miles  to  a  very  good  camp  and 
were  joined  by  Schaffer  of  North 
Carolina.  We  passed  a  new  made 
grave  of  an  emigrant.  The  country 
is  beautiful  and  green. 

By  Thursday  we  passed  the  Pio- 
neer line  but  at  dinner  they  passed  us. 
One  of  the  mules  got  loose  and  I  had 
a  fine  ride  in  catching  him.  We 
drove  to  the  forks  of  the  road  (one 
goes  to  Santa  Fe  and  the  other 
[right]  to  Oregon).  We  camped 
near  an  Indian  hut  which  had  been 
deserted  in  consequence  of  cholera 
breaking  out  in  emigrant  camps  near 
by.  We  are  all  feeling  better. 

On  Friday  I  stood  guard  for  the 
first  time,  on  the  last  watch,  but  did 
not  see  anything  to  shoot.  Started 
early,  and  drove  10  miles  to  a  ford 
of  Bule  Creek  where  we  stopped 
three  hours  to  grass  our  mules,  and 
then  driving  several  miles  where  we 
camped  for  the  night. 

On  Saturday  an  axle  tree  of  one  of 
the  Kentucky  waggons  broke  and 
we  were  compelled  to  stop  until  noon 
when  we  drove  i  mile,  crossing  a 
creek,  and  here  we  stopped  being  de- 
tained a  length  of  time  in  assisting 
each  waggon  up  the  steep  bank,  by 
taking  two  front  mules  and  hitching 
on  to  mules  of  waggon  behind.  We 
baked  bread  for  Sunday. 

Although  our  men  are  opposed  to 
travelling  on  the  Sabbath,  yet,  we 
cannot  be  left  behind  the  train.  At 
noon  we  started  in  a  very  hard  rain 
and  a  terrible  gale  of  wind,  which  wet 
all  of  us.  Dr.  Stone  was  taken  very 
ill  and  I  was  awakened  to  attend  him 
and  I  gave  him  morphine  and  ippe- 
cac,  and  he  became  much  better. 

On  Monday  we  had  a  late  start 
and  in  consequence  travelled  only  8 
miles.  Finding  water  in  the  broad 
plain  where  we  stopped  until  eight 
o'clock  having  had  a  hard  rain  and 
later  going  a  few  miles  before  mak- 


ing camp   for  the  night.     I  had   felt 
very  sick  but  was  better  at  noon. 

The  next  day  we  drove  10  miles  to 
the  crossing  of  the  Kansas  River, 
where  we  were  compelled  to  camp  in 
order  to  carry  the  whole  train  over 
in  one  day  and  be  together. 

On  Wednesday  we  ferried  the  Kan- 
sas River,  (called  by  the  Indians,. 
Kan)  in  three  hours.  I  swam  my 
mule  and  led  two  others  rendering  it 
very  unsafe.  Camped  2  miles  from 
the  river  passing  the  line  of  Turner 
and  Allan.  Many  Indians  came  into 
the  camp  and  wanted  to  trade  for 
liquor.  A  man  named  Faltsby  of 
Xew  York  came  into  camp  and  was 
taken  in  by  Col.  Wilson's  mess.  Rob- 
ert and  Clayton  Reeves  with  their 
sister  came  into  camp  after  we 
crossed  the  Kansas.  There  are  but 
few  women  travelling. 

On  Thursday  the  24th,  we  left 
camp  at  7  o'clock  and  drove  18  miles 
to  Manacursa  Creek  where  v  j 
camped.  The  rain  came  down  in 
torrents  and  our  tents  had  4  inches 
of  water  running  through  them. 
Wood  from  Buncombe  is  ill  with 
symptoms  of  Cholera.  The  day  and 
night  were  the  most  disagreeable 
since  we  left  home. 

On  Friday  after  driving  several 
miles  we  were  detained  to  dig  a  road 
at  either  side  of  the  bank  of  a  creek. 

Saturday  we  broke  camp  early  and 
drove  to  a  creek  which  was  very  high 
and  we  were  obliged  to  build  a  raft 
to  cross,  which  was  not  finished  until 
dark.  H.  A.  Wood  died  of  Cholera, 
tonight,  after  two  days  illness.  It 
cast  a  gloom  over  the  whole  Com- 
pany, as  he  was  liked  by  all.  We 
buried  him  and  marked  his  grave. 

Sunday.  2~th.  We  were  very  busy 
fixing  our  raft  to  cross  the  creek,  and 
only  crossed  in  the  evening  and 
camped  on  the  other  side  one  mile 
from  the  creek. 

But  early  Monday  morning  we 
made  a  start  and  drove  ten  miles 
when  one  of  the  Kentucky  waggons 
broke  down.  Five  of  our  men  were 


ArmBH  tlj?  plains  10  11}?  fforifir 


taken  ill  with  cholera  and  everything 
seems  sad ;  misfortune  hangs  over  us. 

Tuesday  the  sick  seemed  better 
and  we  drove  18  miles  without  acci- 
dent, and  on  Wednesday  20  miles  on 
good  roads. 

Thursday  we  left  camp  at  an  early 
hour,  but  were  detained  a  short  time 
as  a  Kentucky  waggon  broke  down 
again,  and  the  rain  came  down  in  tor- 
rents, wetting  us.  Ten  men  are  sick 
with  the  cholera,  and  I  was  quite  un- 
well, being  attacked  with  diarrhea 
suddenly.  I  swallowed  100  drops  of 
laudanum  in  hopes  of  a  cure. 

Friday  being  a  very  wet  day  and 
exceedingly  disagreeable  we  remained 
in  camp  to  care  for  our  sick,  and  give 
the  mules  a  rest.  The  sick  seem  bet- 
ter but  very  ill. 

Saturday,  June  2nd.  Part  of  our 
company  went  out  to  hunt  a  bear 
which  had  been  seen  near  camp. 
About  noon  Morris  Jackson  of  Sid- 
ney, Ohio,  came  into  camp  and  told 
me  (after  having  made  himself 
known)  that  two  of  the  Bushes,  and 
Dr.  Drum,  of  Shelby  Co.  Ohio,  were 
with  him  so  I  immediately  got  my 
horse  and  rode  over  to  the  train,  and 
found  them.  I  had  a  most  delightful 
afternoon  conversing  about  Sidney 
and  my  old  friends.  We  drove 
,  another  mile  to  good  grass  and  water. 

Early  Sunday  morning,  Capt. 
Lloyd,  Ball  and  Locket  of  the  Ken- 
tucky Company  left  us  and  returned 
home.  This  we  regretted,  but  they 
decided  part  on  account  of  so  much 
sickness  and  the  disagreeable  weather. 
We  left  camp  early  and  drove  12 
miles  through  a  very  level  country, 
with  very  little  grass  and  no  running 
water. 

Near  one  of  the  ponds  I  found  iron 
ore  but  of  an  inferior  quality.  It  has 
the  appearance  of  being  magnetite. 
Drove  8  miles  when  the  axle  of  the 
Kentucky  waggon  broke,  and  we 
camped  for  the  night  without  wood 
or  water. 

On  Monday,  the  4th,  we  left  camp 
at  7  o'clock,  and  drove  about  16  miles 
to  a  creek  where  we  stopped  to  feed 


the  mules.  One  of  our  waggons 
went  on  and  had  nothing  for  the  men 
to  eat. 

Started  at  5  o'clock  and  drove  16 
miles  to  a  creek.  The  land  has  the 
appearance  of  gold  formation. 

On  Wednesday  we  broke  camp 
early  and  drove  about  12  miles  to 
some  grass,  passing  one  small  wag- 
gon which  had  gone  ahead  yesterday. 
After  a  rest  we  again  started,  driving 
8  miles  before  we  found  good  water. 
Camped  on  the  banks  of  Blue  Earth 
•  river  where  we  were  detained  by  rain, 
the  showers  being  the  hardest  we 
have  experienced.  We  camped  near 
three  ox  trains,  in  one  of  which 
was  Dr.  Walker,  the  Messrs.  Reeves 
forming  part  of  their  Company. 

On  Thursday  and  Friday  we  rose 
very  early,  driving  15  miles  one  day, 
and  12  miles  the  next.  We  met  about 
200  Indians  of  the  Sioux  Cheyenne 
tribe,  who  were  in  pursuit  of  Pawnees 
that  we  had  met  on  the  preceding  day. 
The  Pawnees  had  stolen  some  of  their 
mules  and  horses,  and  they  were 
gieatly  exasperated. 

We  made  exchange  of  blankets 
and  moccasins  and  saviets  with  them. 
I  gave  a  saddle  blanket  for  a  Spanish 
style  of  saddle.  We  doubled  our 
guard  after  their  departure  fearing  a 
return  of  our  seeming  friends.  The 
Country  is  not  very  fertile,  neither  is 
it  well  watered  or  timbered.  Some 
of  our  Company  saw  3  elks  this  morn- 
ing. We  drove  13  miles  in  the  after- 
noon to  the  banks  of  the  Platte.  I 
went  out  3  or  4  miles  from  the  road 
today  to  kill  antelope  but  did  not  suc- 
ceed. I  crawled  near  and  just  as  I 
was  in  the  act  of  shooting,  it  became 
alarmed  and  ran  directly  from  me. 
In  crawling  I  lost  my  Colt  revolving 
pistol  and  did  not  discover  the  loss 
until  I  was  2  miles  distant,  and  the 
circuitous  route  which  I  crawled  de- 
termined me  to  pursue  my  course 
towards  the  waggons. 

Saturday,  June  9th.  We  left  camp 
at  6  o'clock  and  drove  on  the  river 
bank  to  Fort  Kearney,  a  distance  of 
15  miles  where  we  camped  near  the 


0f  a  d>0l&  ISwker  in  "Sfartg-nm? 


river  and  spent  the  afternoon  in  writ- 
ing letters  to  John  Potter,  of  Potters 
Mills,  Penna.,  and  to  Father. 

Fort  Kearney  is  still  in  an  unfin- 
ished state,  building  since  last  fall. 
The  huts  are  built  of  turf  and  the 
walls  are  about  2  feet  thick.  There 
is  only  one  frame  house,  which  is 
used  as  the  Company's  store.  Col. 
Bonnville  is  the  Commander  of  the 
Fort  and  Major  Chilton  next  officer 
in  command. 

On  Sunday  the  loth,  in  the  morn- 
ing we  held  a  meeting  of  the  Com- 
pany and  determined  to  rest  all  power 
and  authority  in  one  man.  A  com- 
mittee of  three  was  appointed  to  draft 
regulations  for  the  government  of  the 
party.  They  reported,  and  after  read- 
ing, were  adopted,  with  a  few  amend- 
ments. An  election  was  held,  Col. 
Wilson  was  elected  by  a  vote  of  24  to 

17- 

At  7  o'clock  we  started  and  drove 
15  miles  to  a  fine  level  place  near  the 
banks  of  the  river.  We  found  the 
wild  cactus.  The  road  lay  in  the  be  I 
of  the  river  and  it  was  very  nice. 

On  Monday  we  drove  15  miles  to  a 
fine  camping  ground  on  the  river 
bank.  Saw  a  large  train  on  the 
Xorth  side  of  the  river,  by  the  Coun- 
cil Bluff  road. 

Tuesday  we  made  2  miles  on  an  ex- 
cellent road  there  being  scarcely  a  hill 
all  the  distance.  On  the  left  there 
was  a  range  of  hills  extending  par- 
allel with  the  road,  while  to  our  right 
lay  the  river  in  its  greatest  width, 
dotted  here  and  there  with  an  island. 
The  river  is  very  high,  yet  shallow 
enough  for  our  mules  to  ford. 

Wednesday  we  left  camp  at  a  late 
hour,  owing  to  our  disagreeable  situ- 
ation. About  dusk  a  rain  and  wind 
storm,  a  perfect  hurricane,  came  up 
and  came  near  overturning  our  tents. 
The  rain  was  blown  in  our  provision 
waggon,  and  wet  the  flour  and  sugar. 
The  general  feature  of  the  country 
is  about  the  same  except  the  hills  on 
our  left  present  a  rugged  and  broken 
appearance. 


\Ye  have  overtaken  the  Pioneer 
Line,  owned  by  Turner  and  Allan,  of 
St.  Louis,  which  is  progressing 
slowly. 

Thursday  we  started  at  6  o'clock, 
driving  15  miles  for  grass  on  the  bank 
of  the  Platte.  We  did  not  follow 
the  road  but  drove  through  the  grass, 
it  being  easier  on  our  mules.  The 
hills  to  our  left  were  much  higher 
than  the  day  before,  and  the  river  nar- 
rower. For  the  first  time  we  found 
wood  on  this  side  of  the  river,  princi- 
pally cotton  wood.  We  passed  the 
Pioneer  Line,  and  if  nothing  happens 
will  keep  in  advance. 

From  a  person  returning  to  the 
States  we  learned  there  was  much 
suffering,  in  the  trains  ahead  of  us, 
mules  and  oxen  were  giving  out,  on 
account  of  the  insufficient  grass. 

We  were  430  miles  from  Independ- 
ence. We  drove  8  miles  further  to 
wood  and  water. 

Friday  we  left  camp  early  driving 
17  miles  before  noon,  stopping  here 
until  4  o'clock,  then  started  again 
and  drove  7  miles  to  fine  water. 
Xear  the  hill  on  our  left  we  saw  the 
first  Buffalo.  Chase  was  immediately 
given  by  our  men  who  succeeded  in 
killing  one  after  an  hour's  chase. 
While  they  were  dividing  that  one  a 
large  drove  came  in  sight,  and  the  ex- 
citing sport  was  again  resumed,  with 
more  success,  killing  six  of  the  finest. 
Then  drove  the  herd  toward  the  train 
of  the  Pioneers  who  killed  a  number. 
I  was  not  engaged  in  this  as  I  loaned 
my  Comanche  to  Taylor  who  did 
splendid,  considering  he  was  an  inex- 
perienced hunter. 

Saturday,  i6th.  Left  camp  late  and 
drove  4  miles  to  the  crossing  of  the 
Platte  River,  where  we  were  detained 
some  hours  in  crossing.  The  river 
at  this  place  is  about  i  and  l/4  miles 
wide,  and  quite  shallow  with  the  ex- 
ception of  one  or  two  places,  where 
the  water  ran  into  the  waggon.  It 
was  with  the  greatest  difficulty  we 
crossed,  the  sand  being  cut  in  deep 
gulleys,  causing  the  mules  to  sink  and 
fall.  The  sand  filled  up  the  waggon 


I0urm»ij  Ami*** 


hubs,  thereby  locking  the  wheels.  Dr. 
Stone  killed  a.  fine  Buffalo  before  the 
waggons  crossed  and  we  had  deli- 
cious steak  for  supper,  which  was 
equal  to  any  veal  I  ever  eat. 

We  found  three  fresh  graves  of 
emigrants  who  died  of  the  cholera. 
We  camped  in  fine  grass  about  2 
miles  from  the  crossing,  making  only 
6  miles  that  day. 

The  Messrs.  Reeves  again  over 
took  us  and  camped  near.  They  are 
travelling  in  an  ox  train  and  will 
reach  California  as  soon  as  if  we  do 
riot  abandon  stopping  so  often. 

Sunday,  the  i/th.  This  was  a  most 
beautiful  day  and  we  were  delighted 
to  hear  we  were  to  remain  all  day  in 
camp.  I  devoted  the  day  to  reading 
and  sleeping, — the  latter  I  enjoyed 
very  much.  Some  of  the  Kentucky 
boys  violated  the  Sabbath  by  taking 
a  Buffalo  hunt.  The  Buffaloes 
seemed  to  be  very  tame,  and  are  graz- 
ing quietly  on  our  right  when  we  are 
willing  to  let  them  remain,  while  a 
few  on  our  left  claim  our  attention. 

There  are  no  less  than  5  ox  trains 
in  view,  all  resting  on  the  Lord's  Day ; 
five  of  the  Company  are  busy  wash- 
ing, but  that  task  I  was  so  fortunate 
to  perform  yesterday. 

Monday  we  made  a  very  early  start 
and  crossed  the  hills  from  the  South 
to  the  North  fork  of  the  Platte,  where 
we  found  a  fine  road  near  the  highest 
branch  from  the  river.  We  contin- 
ued along  this  for  18  miles  stopping 
at  noon  for  lunch  and  to  feed  the 
mules.  We  felt  very  refreshed  after 
a  good  cup  of  coffee. 

Dr.  Stone  gave  chase  to  a  buffalo 
and  came  across  a  very  large  wolf 
which  I  killed .  off  of  my  Comanche 
mare  while  riding  without  saddle  or 
bridle,  and  it  was  this  that  induced 
me  to  return  to  the  waggon  road,  but 
found  that  they  were  3  miles  in  ad- 
vance of  me.  The  Valley  is  quite 
warm,  but  no  wood  or  water  is  to  be 
found.  It  is  shut  in  by  the  hills  pro- 
jecting to  the  banks  of  the  river  so 
we  were  compelled  to  take  to  the  hills 


ains  tn  %  fanftr 


on  which  we  travel  many  miles  and 
pitch  camp  at  darkness,  by  a  dirty 
pond. 

On  Tuesday  we  drove  8  miles  and 
descended  from  the  high  hills  to  the 
narrow  but  fertile  valley  of  the  river, 
travelling  12  miles.  Immediately  in 
advance  of  us  about  2  miles  we  struck 
the  Valley.  There  were  two  Indian 
wigwams  which  we  visited  and  found 
three  Indians  lying  dead  in  one  tent, 
and  one  in  the  other.  The  latter  ap- 
peared to  be  the  chief  and  was  laid 
out  with  all  his  costume.  His  horse 
lay  dead  at  the  entrance  of  the  wig- 
wam. No  violence  was  visible  and 
we  concluded  all  had  died  of  cholera, 
which  has  been  raging  with  great 
fatality  among  the  Indian  tribes.  As 
we  are  in  the  country  of  the  Sioux 
tribes,  it  is  reasonable  to  presume  that 
they  belonged  to  that  nation. 

A  fearful  tempest  rose  in  the  even- 
ing, and  we  were  compelled  to  pitch 
camp  in  a  very  uncomfortable  place. 
Making  15  miles. 

On  Wednesday  morning  the  camp- 
ers were  thrown  into  great  consterna- 
tion by  the  discharging  of  a  gun,  as 
we  are  in  danger  of  attack  from  In- 
dians, but  it  proved  to  be  from  a  gun 
in  the  hands  of  a  Kentuckian,  the  load 
taking  effect  in  the  right  side  of  Mr. 
Bush.  At  the  same  place  Bush  and 
he  had  fought  on  the  previous  even- 
ing, about  a  very  trivial  matter,  and 
after  the  fight  was  over  Bush  went  in- 
to the  tent  and  kicked  his  opponent 
in  the  mouth  as  he  was  resting  on  the 
ground.  The  Kentuckian  got  up  and 
getting  his  gun,  shot  Bush,  the  ball 
entered  and  passed  through  the  ten- 
don. 

At  a  meeting  of  the  Company  it  was 
decided  that  the  Kentuckian  should  be 
driven  out  of  the  Company.  Accord- 
ingly he  left  after  night  with  two 
mules.  There  were  a  number  of  In- 
dians visiting  camp,  with  whom  we 
exchanged  many  articles,  these  we 
needed  in  our  travels.  A  few  ex- 
changes were  made  of  horses  and 
mules  to  an  advantage.  The  Indian 
is  very  partial  to  the  large  American 


Hfommra  of  a  (Snlft  liwlm*  in  "3Fnrty-nme 


horse  and  will  give  two  ponies  or 
mules  for  one  of  that  kind. 

On  Thursday  we  left  camp  and 
drove  15  miles  to  good  grass  and 
water,  for  noon  feed.  The  Lime- 
stone rock  on  the  hills  to  our  left  have 
a  most  rugged  appearance,  and  the 
sand  is  deeper. 

After  travelling  four  miles,  we  left 
the  river  and  ascended  a  very  steep 
hill,  on  which  wre  travelled  three  miles, 
when  we  descended  into  a  deep  ravine 
where  there  were  some  fine  springs, 
and  very  good  Buffalo  grass  for  the 
mules.  The  beautiful  shade  and  the 
refreshing  air  in  this  picturesque 
place,  inspired  one  and  all  with  a  de- 
sire to  pitch  tent  for  the  night.  A 
wish  which  was  gratified  by  the  ne- 
cessity of  waiting  on  Capt.  Posey's 
mess,  who  had  broken  an  axle  wheel 
in  the  act  of  entering  the  ravine. 

The  Bushes  and  Jackson,  of  Ohio, 
are  just  in  our  advance  to-night. 

Friday,  we  did  not  affect  so  early 
a  start  as  on  the  day  before  owing  to 
the  broken  axle  being  unfinished,  yet 
started  at  seven  o'clock,  and  drove 
fourteen  miles  to  grass  on  the  bank 
oi  the  river.  At  this  place,  our  mess, 
and  the  mess  from  Rutherford 
County.  Xorth  Carolina ;  composed  of 
Gilky.  Shoreffer,  Dwitty  and  Craz- 
tc  n ;  concluded  to  leave  the  train  and 
endeavor  to  travell  more  steadily,  and 
if  possible  more  expeditiously  than 
we  had  been  doing.  We  accordingly 
started  at  three  o'clock  and  drove  six 
miles  to  a  small  knoll,  about  two  miles 
in  advance  of  Wilson's  camp. 

Saturday,  23rd.  We  made  an  early 
start  and  drove  fifteen  miles  to  grass 
near  the  river.  In  the  afternoon  we 
travelled  eight  miles,  about  four  miles 
in  advance  of  Wilson's  train.  The 
road  is  good,  and  water  abundant. 

Sundav  we  started  from  camp  very 
reluctantly,  as  we  are  opposed  to  trav- 
elling on  this  day.  but  having  lost 
three  days  this  week,  we  felt  ourselves 
justified  in  moving  on.  We  passed 
fifteen  graves  to-dav  of  emigrants 
who  died  with  the  Cholera,  from  the 
i/th  to  the  23rd  of  last  month. 


We  drove  on  a  fine  road  to-day, 
crossing  one  or  two  fine  creeks,  where 
we  supplied  ourselves  with  water.  As 
the  sun  was  disappearing  in  the  west 
we  drove  up  to  the  fine  spring  near 
Chimney  rock,  a  notorious  land  mark, 
and  was  glad  to  give  our  wearied  ani- 
mals a  rest  though  we  could  not  give 
them  good  grass.  We  travelled 
twenty-eight  miles  this  day.  The 
Chimney  rock  resembles  a  Shot 
Tower  at  a  distance,  but  on  approach- 
ing it  the  Chimney  form  is  quite  per- 
ceptible. It  can  be  seen  about  thirty 
miles,  eastward,  and  is  composed  of 
soft  rock  and  sand  which  time  will 
soon  destroy.  The  appearance  of  the 
country  is  beautiful  and  the  hills  on 
the  left  are  washed  into  blocks,  pre- 
senting a  square  front,  not  unlike  old 
barracks  of  a  fortress. 

Monday  we  did  not  make  an  early 
start,  yet  drove  fifteen  miles  to  grass. 
Fourteen  miles  from  Chimney  Rock 
the  road  leaves  the  river  and  emi- 
grants should  by  all  means  provide 
themselves  with  water,  as  they  will 
drive  twenty  miles  before  finding  any 
and  then  not  sufficient  for  all  pur- 
poses. After  leaving  the  river,  the 
road  lies  through  one  of  the  finest 
valleys  I  ever  saw  and  is  decidedly  the 
best  twenty  miles  of  road  we  have 
travelled. 

By  the  spring  at  Scotts  Blufif.  there 
i.-i  a  store  and  blacksmith's  shop,  kept 
by  Rubedere,  a  trader  who  has  re- 
sided among  the  Sioux  Indians  for 
thirteen  years.  Grass  is  very  good 
and  water  excellent  for  present  use, 
being  unfit  to  carry,  even  to  Horse 
Creek,  a  distance  of  twelve  miles. 
We  travelled  thirty  miles  and  were 
very  reluctant  to  stop  on  such  a  fine 
read.  There  were  eight  trains  camp- 
ing in  sight  of  us.  My  mare  broke 
and  ran  away  from  me  and  I  ran  four 
miles  after  her.  The  gun  of  Dwitty 
was  fastened  on  the  saddle  and  just 
as  I  caught  her.  she  sprang  back 
against  a  bush,  thereby  causing  the 
gun  to  discharge,  the  contents  enter- 
ing the  ground  between  my  feet. 
I  uckilv  there  was  no  harm  done,  ex- 


3J0unt?ij  Arr00a  ilj?  fUattts  10  ity  ftanftr 


cepting    the    excessive    fatigue    occa- 
sioned me  by  running  so  hard. 

Tuesday  we  rose  at  break  of  day 
and  ate  breakfast,  in  order  to  start 
immediately  before  the  trains  in  the 
valley.  We  drove  fourteen  miles  to 
grass  west  of  Horse  Creek,  having 
passed  several  trains.  After  taking 
dinner,  we  all  laid  down  to  rest  and 
were  suddenly  aroused  by  the  report 
of  a  gun  among  us,  which  was  quick- 
ly followed  by  a  shriek.  We  all  im- 
mediately ran  to  the  waggon  of  the 
Rutherford  Mess  and  found  to  our 
surprise,  Lafayette  Dwitty,  rolling  in 
agony  and  his  clothes  on  fire.  No 
time  was  lost  in  getting  the  fire  extin- 
guished and  him  out  of  the  waggon, 
when  we  found  that  eleven  buckshot 
had  entered  the  knee,  from  the  left 
side  of  the  leg.  It  seems  that  he  had 
thrown  his  gun  into  the  waggon  on 
top  of  bedding  and  clothing,  and  his 
Mess  mate-Shaeffer,  having  pulled 
his  coat  from  under  the  gun,  raised 
the  hammer  and  exploded  the  per- 
cusion  caps.  The. muzzle  of  the  gun 
v\-as  directly  in  contact  with  his  knee, 
hence  the  shot  could  not  scatter,  but 
entered  the  flesh,  striking  the  bone 
and  glancing  in  many  directions,  one 
or  two  of  the  balls  passed  through 
and  two  were  extracted  by  a  very 
kind  and  accommodating  physician, 
from  Illinois,  who  was  nearby  when 
the  accident  occurred.  Fears  are  en- 
tertained that  amputation  will  be  nec- 
essary, when  we  reach  Fort  Laramie. 

The  physician  advises  us  to  hasten 
to  the  Fort  and  place  him  under  the 
care  of  an  experienced  surgeon.  This 
has  cast  a  gloom  over  the  whole  com- 
pany and  will  materially  affect  our 
travell,  but  this  we  do  not  think  of 
compared  to  the  extent  of  his  agony. 
I  felt  persuaded  that  more  danger  is 
to  be  apprehended  from  the  careless- 
ness of  arms  among  fellow  emigrants, 
than  from  the  hostile  Indian. 

Wednesday,  after  much  delay  in  the 
morning,  we  started  and  drove  very 
slowly  untill  we  travelled  twenty 
miles  to  good  grass  and  water. 


Dwitty  suffered  much  from  his 
wound. 

Thursday  we  reached  Fort  Lar- 
amie, and  we  here  determined  to  dis- 
pose of  our  heavy  waggon  and  attach 
six  mules  to  the  small  one,  and  hasten 
on  our  road. 

Friday  we  busied  ourselves  in  con- 
densing our  load  and  packing  in  one 
waggon,  and  finished  at  three  o'clock. 
All  the  trunks,  part  of  the  Bacon  and 
everything  that  was  not  absolutely 
necessary  was  thrown  aside.  When 
we  had  finished  our  arduous  task  and 
were  ready  to  gear  our  mules,  our 
surprise  may  be  better  imagined  than 
described,  when  an  officer  of  the  Fort, 
stalked  into  camp  and  informed  us 
that  one  of  our  mules  was  under  the 
brand  of  the  United  States,  and  he 
would  take  it  as  his  property  of  the 
same.  On  repairing  to  our  mules,  he 
selected  the  finest  mule  in  the  gang 
and  pointed  to  what  had  escaped  our 
attention,  the  mark-U.  S.  The  Quar- 
termaster decided  that  the  mule  be- 
longed to  the  United  States,  therefore 
we  must  give  it  up,  which  we  did  very 
reluctantly.  The  mule  was  bought  of 
the  Government  at  Santa  Fe  last  win- 
ter and  brought  in  this  spring  to  Inde- 
pendence, where  we  purchased  her. 
The  protection  afforded  to  emigrants 
by  the  chain  of  Military  Posts  is  only 
another  name  for  robbery.  An  emi- 
grant can  purchase  nothing  except  at 
an  exorbitant  price,  and  in  the  present 
instance  suffer  himself  to  be  stript 
of  his  all,  when  far  away  from  home. 
Much  depended  on  this  mule  and  we 
shall  feel  her  loss  greatly.  In  conse- 
quence of  this  high  handed  piece  of 
villainy  we  struck  tent  and  drove  four 
miles  to  ordinary  grass. 

Saturday,  3Oth.  This  morning 
Hains  and  Stone  returned  to  the  Fort, 
t'>  have  an  interview  with  Maj.  San- 
derson relative  to  our  mules.  The 
Major  not  being  cognizant  of  yester- 
day's transaction,  we  thought  best  to 
make  another  effort. 

We  were  not  a  little  surprised  to 
find  H.  M.  Atkinson  of  our  Com- 
pany, preparing  to  leave  us  and  re- 


ifemmra  nf  a  (Unto 


hi  "Sfartg-nm?" 


turn  home.  Not  being  inclined  to 
persuade  him  contrary  to  his  wishes, 
we  acquiesced  and  bid  him  farewell, 
hoping-  him  a  safe  return  to  his  fam- 
ily and  friends.  We  regretted  seeing 
him  return  on  foot,  but  he  did  not 
own  any  interest  in  the  Company  and 
we  could  not  spare  him  a  mule.  We 
drove  twelve  miles  to  a  spring  and 
running  water,  where  we  found  grass 
quite  scarce.  Again  set  out  and  drove 
ten  miles  to  the  river  bottom.  When 
we  left  the  hills  and  entered  the  ravine 
we  found  a  few  springs,  and  plenty 
of  wood  in  the  ravine. 

After  dark,  Hains  and  Stone  re- 
turned with  the  mule,  that  the  gov- 
etnment  had  detained.  Atkinson 
also  returned,  having  taken  a  second 
thought  about  the  difficulties  in  reach- 
ing home. 

Major  Sanderson,  formerly  of  Co- 
lumbus, Ohio,  is  the  Commanding 
Officer  of  the  Fort  and  conducts  him- 
self with  much  credit.  Especially  in 
this  affair.  He  is  a  Gentleman  in 
every  sense  of  the  word,  and  will  be 
of  infinite  service  to  emigrants. 

Owing  to  all  the  trains  in  the  neigh- 
borhood of  our's  leaving  camp  on 
Sunday,  we  concluded  to  drive  also, 
as  the  Indians  are  on  the  hills  nearby, 
and  will  take  advantage  of  our  situa- 
tion. They  made  an  effort  to  steal 
the  mules  from  a  train  nearest  ours. 
We  drove  eight  miles  to  a  creek  where 
we  found  a  good  grass  and  we  put 
our  mules  out  as  Harris  and  Mason 
concluded  to  return  to  our  Mornings' 
Camp,  for  our  only  bucket  which  was 
left  inadvertently,  and  when  they  re- 
turned it  was  too  late  for  us  to  drive 
any  distance  therefore  we  rested  the 
ballance  of  the  clay  at  this  creek,  with 
only  one  train  in  sight.  The  sur- 
rounding country  is  quite  rough,  the 
hills  being  rocky  and  covered  with 
small  cedars,  which  give  them  a  dark 
appearance,  hence  they  are  called 
Black  Hills. 

On  our  left,  about  one  mile  the  hills 
are  of  reddish  formation  resembling 
the  red  clay  of  Tennessee. 


On  Monday  we  left  camp  early, 
with  five  Scotchmen,  who  came  up 
last  night  in  one  waggon.  They 
had  separated  from  their  party  on 
account  of  their  slow  driving.  We 
drove  through  a  rather  watered  and 
fertile  country  for  fifteen  miles,  to 
grass  on  the  banks  of  the  river.  Just 
ahead,  we  leave  it  for  some  time.  I 
am  very  unwell  to-day,  having  symp- 
toms of  cholera. 

At  three  o'clock  we  started  and 
drove  eight  miles  to  good  buffaloe 
grass,  near  a  branch.  The  country 
is  more  fertile  than  that  we  have  been 
passing  through  for  the  last  two 
weeks,  but  is  more  broken,  presenting 
a  variableness  which  is  quite  agree- 
able to  the  eye. 

Early  Tuesday  morning  we  made 
ready  to  leave,  when  we  were  sur- 
prised to  see  a  man  ride  into  camp  and 
claim  two  horses,  which  had  been 
brought  into  our  company  the  night 
before  by  a  young  man  of  respectable 
appearance,  who  requested  permission 
to  remain.  The  matter  was  soon  ex- 
plained, it  appears  that  a  company 
from  New  York  had  made  arrange- 
ments to  pack  at  the  Fort  and  in  do- 
ing so  rather  inconvenienced  the 
young  man  and  he  decided  to  take  two 
of  the  horses  and  go  ahead.  Only 
one  course  was  to  be  pursued,  and 
that  was  soon  acted  upon,  the  horses 
handed  over  and  the  young  man  re- 
turned in  captivity  to  the  fort.  We 
found  the  road  exceedingly  hilly,  yet 
perfectly  smooth.  Grass  was  re- 
markably scarce,  but  water  plenty,  ex- 
cepting the  distance  of  five  miles  of 
the  latter  part  of  the  fifteen  mile  drive 
in  the  forenoon.  The  hills  are  com- 
posed of  reddish  clay  with  a  slight 
covering  of  white  sand.  Many  In- 
dians were  seen  near  our  noon  camp, 
so  we  deemed  it  prudent  to  guard  our 
mules.  We  drove  eight  miles  to 
Sandy  creek  where  grass  was  very 
scarce. 

On  Wednesday,  I  awoke  and  rose 
early  from  my  bed,  which  was  noth- 
ing more  than  a  buffaloe  robe 


3I0urimj  Arr000 


atna  in  ttyt  partftr 


stretched  on  the  ground  with  the  clear 
blue  sky  for  covering.  We  were 
compelled  to  herd  our  mules  on  the 
hills  near  by  camp  and  being  appre- 
hensive of  the  Indians  we  concluded 
to  lay  near  the  stock.  There  were 
six  trains  in  sight  of  us  and  all  night 
our  ears  were  deafened  by  the  reports 
of  guns  and  pistols,  etc.,  which  were 
fired  in  celebration  of  the  coming  day, 
July  the  Fourth. 

Doctor  drove,  (myself  waggoner 
to-day)  fourteen  miles  to  ordinary 
grass  on  the  bank  of  the  Platte. 

The  country  presents  about  the 
same  appearance,  no  grass  worth 
mentioning,  but  water  is  abundant. 
The  road  is  in  fine  order  and  not  so 
hilly.  After  resting  one  and  a  half 
hours,  we  started  and  drove  to  the 
ferry,  where  we  were  kindly  accom- 
modated by  Mr.  Turner  of  the  Pio- 
neer Line.  We  had  travelled  twenty 
miles. 

Thursday  we  hitched  up  and  drove 
five  miles  on  a  very  Sandy  road,  along 
the  bank  of  the  river.  Our  mules 
needed  grass  and  we  deemed  it  best 
to  feed  them,  though  on  poor  grass. 
After  three  hours  feeding  we  drove 
seven  miles  to  fine  grass  on  the  river's 
edge,  where  our  mules  fitted  them- 
selves for  hard  travell  on  the  ensueing 
day.  We  had  gone  thirteen  miles. 

We  left  camp  at  sun  rise  Friday, 
and  drove  on  a  very  hilly  and  sandy 
road  for  ten  miles,  when  we  unhitched 
our  mules  and  took  them  to  an  island 
in  the  river  where  grass  was  very 
good. 

The  grass  along  the  hills  is  parched, 
and  the  soil  has  the  appearance  of 
being  very  poor.  There  was  no  wood 
on  the  hills  and  but  very  little  near 
the  river. 

I  had  a  severe  toothache  which  ren- 
dered me  miserable  in  the  extreme. 
We  drove  after  dinner  five  miles  to 
a  trading  waggon,  where  we  stopped, 
in  order  to  trade,  and  then  drove  the 
mules  to  grass,  off  the  road  north 
two  miles,  where  we  intend  to  keep 
them  untill  one  o'clock  in  the  morning 
and  then  start  on  our  way. 


Saturday,  7th.  Early  this  morning 
we  were  roused  from  our  sleep  by  the 
guard  bringing  in  the  mules  and  soon 
we  had  eaten  the  cold  piece  of  meat 
made  ready  for  us  by  the  cook  and 
were  off  on  the  road  for  the  hard 
travell  before  us. 

I  drove  about  seven  miles  when  the 
pain  in  my  head  was  so  severe  that  I 
gave  the  lines  to  Mason  and  crawled 
in  the  waggon,  suffering  the  greatest 
agony  all  the  time.  No  stop  of  con- 
sequence was  made  at  noon  as  there 
was  no  water  and  little  grass.  After 
leaving  the  river,  we  found  on  the 
ridge,  about  two  miles,  a  fine  pond  of 
water  and  another  about  four  miles, 
which  is  not  impregnated  with  alkali. 
About  five  o'clock  we  reached  the 
Alkali  SprinTS,  where  we  camped  for 
the  night.  The  grass  is  good  from 
the  road  and  the  water  tastes  like 
Seidlitz  Powder,  more  than  any  thing 
I  know  of.  No  injurious  effect  re- 
sulted from  the  use  of  the  water,  with 
either  ourselves  or  with  the  mules. 
We  travelled  twenty  miles. 

Sunday  morning  we  concluded  to 
move  onward  untill  we  reached  good 
grass  and  water,  as  our  stock  was  suf- 
fering for  both. 

The  ox  trains  that  have  preceeded 
us  have  lost  many  oxen  from  the  use 
of  this  water  and  I  fear  many  will  not 
profit  by  the  example.  We  drove 
four  miles  to  Willow  Springs,  where 
there  is  plenty  of  water,  but  no  grass 
and  the  many  dead  oxen  lying  near 
the  water  induced  us  to  continue  our 
journey  untill  the  great  desirable  is 
found.  There  is  a  fine  spring  two 
miles  from  the  Willow  Spring  but  we 
missed  it  and  drove  four  miles  to  the 
foot  of  a  hill  where  we  struck  the 
sma1!  creek,  which  has  been  trickling 
down  the  swamp  to  our  left  for  six 
mi!es.  The  water  is  net  good,  nor  is 
the  grass,  but  our  mules  need  grass 
so  much,  that  we  were  compelled  to 
turn  them  out  and  let  them  pick  all 
they  can. 

The  wind  blew  a  perfect  tempest 
and  nothing  is  so  disagreeable  to  the 


nf  a  (into  &??k?r  in  "3farty-mur 


traveller  than  to  have  sand  blown  in 
his  eyes  all  day. 

In  the  afternoon  we  drove  five 
miles,  crossing  Greasy  Creek  and 
turning  down  it  untill  we  found  good 
grass.  The  excellent  grass  is  a  great 
treat  to  the  mules  and  by  feeding  will 
much  improve  their  condition.  I  en- 
joyed a  bath  in  the  river  finely  in  the 
evening.  The  valley  is  remarkably 
beautiful  and  quite  a  preceptible  dif- 
ference greets  the  eye  in  the  feature 
of  the  whole  country. 

On  Monday  the  luxuriant  grass 
near  by  camp  induced  us  to  let  our 
mules  feed  untill  nine  o'clock  when 
we  gathered  up  and  directed  our 
course  to  the  road,  leaving  the  blu!T 
to  our  left. 

To  our  left  about  one  hundred 
yards,  there  was  a  lake  of  Alkali, 
which  had  nearly  dried  up  and  Sal- 
uratis  was  lying  in  abundance  in  the 
bottom. 

After  driving  about  eight  miles  we 
reached  the  notable  Independence 
Rock,  on  the  bank  of  Sweet  Water 
River.  There  is  nothing  remarkable 
about  the  rock  except  its  position, 
which  is  at  the  opening  of  a  valley. 
1  he  rock  is  about  half  a  mile  long,  by 
one  fourth  mile  wide,  and  is  com- 
posed of  sandstone  mixed  with  small 
pieces  of  granite  and  flint.  Many 
crevices  are  near  the  summit  and 
nearest  the  river  there  is  quite  a  de- 
pression, in  the  summit,  resembling  a 
saddle.  It  does  not  present  the  rug- 
ged appearance  that  is  characteristic 
of  the  mountains,  to  the  east.  The 
plain  is  wide  and  beautiful  in  the  ex- 
treme, while  to  the  west  the  valley  is 
quite  narrow,  in  the  middle  of  which 
winds  the  gentle  stream.  Sweet  Water 
River.  About  the  rock  are  many 
camps,  among  which  I  noticed  two 
Government  Trains.  Near  the  rock 
the  road  crosses  the  river  and  ascends 
the  hill  to  the  left,  on  which  you 
travell  for  five  miles,  in  order  to  miss 
the  Devils  Gate,  a  narrow  place  in  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  through  which  the 
River  has  forced  itself.  We  drove 
about  two  miles  beyond  the  gate  to 


very  good  grass  on  the  bank  of  the 
River.  Well  do  the  mountains  de- 
serve the  name  of  Rocky,  as  there  is 
to  all  appearance  no  earth  among  the 
rock,  yet  the  eye  is  greeted  occasion- 
ally with  a  green  bush  growing  in  the 
crevice  of  the  rock.  So  far  the 
mountains  are  not  high  but  quite 
steep. 

Tuesday  we  left  camp  early  and 
drove  to  ordinary  grass  on  the  hilb. 
We  travelled  twelve  miles  along  the 
creek,  when  we  left  it  and  took  to  the 
hills,  the  roads  sandy  and  heavy.  A 
short  distance  from  the  creek  on  the 
hills  there  is  a  small  lake,  dry,  the 
bottom  of  which  is  covered  with  Sal- 
uratis. 

We  overtook  Mr.  Briddleman  of 
Sulivan  County,  E.  Tennessee,  who 
left  the  states  a  few  days  before  we 
did.  After  resting  two  hours  at  noo.-. 
we  hitched  up  and  travelled  about  six 
miles  on  a  very  deep  and  sandy  road, 
having  crossed  the  creek  only  once. 
The  grass  to  the  left  of  the  road  three 
miles,  is  excellent  and  not  bad  grass 
on  the  creek.  We  passed  many  dead 
oxen  on  the  road,  the  stench  from 
which  perfumes  the  air  for  a  great 
distance. 

I  left  the  road  and  rode  two  miles 
to  the  right,  untill  I  struck  the  Sweet 
Water  River,  continueing  down  the 
same  about  one  mile  I  reached  a  camp 
of  two  waggons,  which  I  found  were 
from  Tennessee.  One  of  the  men 
was  from  Ash  County,  North  Car.  - 
lina.  and  acquainted  with  many  of  my 
friends,  the  others  were  from  Hawk- 
ins and  Sulivan  Counties,  of  East 
Tennessee.  They  were  rejoiced  to 
hear  from  me  that  our  mess  was  from 
the  neighboring  counties.  A  black 
man,  belonging  to  Kincade  is  very 
sick  with  the  cholera  and  will  in  all 
probability  die  very  soon. 

We  made  eighteen  miles  (hiring 
the  day. 

Wednesday  morning  we  did  not 
start  so  early  as  usual  in  consequence 
of  the  intention  of  our  company  to 
drive  only  eighteen  mik->  this  day. 
We  drove  ten  miles  when  we  stopped 


Arrnss 


atttH  tn  tfo  |Jariftr 


and  crossed  the  river  to  good  grass, 
where  we  remained  four  hours.  Again 
we  set  out  and  crossing  the  river  five 
times,  we  drove  eight  miles  to  the 
banks  of  the  river,  and  at  the  foot  of 
the  hill,  where  the  road  leaves  the 
river  for  sixteen  miles.  The  grass 
had  been  good,  but  was  eaten  short, 
therefore  we  drove  the  mules  down 
the  river  about  one  mile  where  we 
found  fine  grass.  About  seven  miles 
back  and  near  where  we  struck  the 
river  we  passed  through  the  narrow- 
est place  on  the  road.  It  is  about 
fifty  yards  wide,  for  one  hundred 
vards,  then  gradually  widening  untill 
it  opens  into  a  wide  plain. 

The  rocky  cliffs  continued  on  our 
right  and  left,  throughout  the  day's 
distance.  Made  our  eighteen  miles 
that  day. 

Thursday,  the  last  watch  was  mine, 
and  I  awoke  the  camp  at  three  o'clock, 
in  order  to  make  an  early  start,  as  we 
had  sixteen  miles  to  make  before  with- 
out wood  or  water.  We  started  at 
sun  rise  and  drove  twelve  miles  to 
some  water  to  the  left  of  the  road 
about  one  half  a  mile.  We  found 
poor  grass,  no  grass  of  consequence 
is  to  be  found  any  where  near  the 
road.  The  road  is  sandy  for  a  short 
distance,  but  generally  is  very  firm 
and  even. 

After  feeding  three  hours  we 
geared  up  and  drove  four  miles, 
where  we  descended  from  the  hills  to 
the  river  and  crossing  a  deep  ford. 
All  the  grass  has  been  eaten  short, 
and  so  many  dead  oxen  near  by  in- 
duced us  to  climb  a  very  long  hill  and 
again  descend  a  steep  rough  side,  to 
the  river,  making  about  four  miles 
from  the  last  ford  to  where  we  again 
meet  the  river. 

Grass  is  excellent,  but  wood  scarce. 
In  the  morning  the  snow  capped 
mountains  in  the  far  distance,  pre- 
sented themselves  to  our  view,  and 
this  is  the  first  time  we  have  ever  seen 
snow  in  the  month  of  July. 

The  mules  did  not  like  the  grass 
we  found  on  Thursday,  so  on  Friday 
we  did  not  think  it  necessary  to  re- 


main longer  than  sun-rise  when  we 
started  and  drove  sixteen  miles  to 
very  good  grass,  on  the  Strawberry 
Creek.  There  were  fourteen  Comf.a- 
nies  camped  in  the  valley  that  even- 
ing. 

Saturday,  I4th.  The  grass  being  so 
good  we  concluded  to  remain  untill 
noon  and  let  our  mules  eat  to  their 
hearts  content.  While  they  were  Bat- 
ing, the  waggon  of  Steele  and  Co., 
was  being  unloaded  and  fixed.  Haines 
is  very  unwell  to-day,  so  much  so 
that  he  took  a  dose  of  Calomel. 
«  At  twelve  o'clock  we  hitched  up 
and  drove  sixteen  miles  to  the  Pacific 
Springs  on  the  west  side  of  the  noto- 
rious South  Pass.  When  we  left 
Strawberry  Creek,  we  ascended  a 
long  hill  and  continued  along  the  sum- 
mit for  three  or  four  miles,  when  we 
descended  to  the  Sweet  Water  River, 
where  we  found  snow  in  piles  along 
the  side  of  the  hill.  At  this  place  we 
again  ascended  a  long  hill,  continuing 
to  ascend  a  gradual  slope  for  ten 
miles,  when  we  reached  the  Summit 
of  the  South  Pass.  The  road  is  one 
of  the  best  we  have  had,  only  equaled 
by  the  piece  from  the  Platte  River  to 
the  Chimney  Rock.  In  the  distance 
can  be  seen  mountains,  facing  us,  and 
one"  is  led  to  wonder  how  he  will  get 
through  their  passes — if  not  assured 
he  may  think  he  must  of  necessity 
climb  some  of  them.  From  the  sum- 
mit to  the  Spring  (distance,  three 
miles)  the  road  is  sandy,  of  white 
sand.  The  Pacific  Spring  is  very 
large  and  rises  near  a, hill  and  waters 
a  low  piece  of  land  near  by  which  is 
very  marshy.  The  water  is  as  cold 
as  ice,  and  clear  as  crystal.  We  trav- 
elled nineteen  miles. 

Sunday  we  remained  at  the  Springs 
in  order  to  feed  our  mules,  and  rest 
Haines,  who  was  quite  sick  that  morn- 
ing. He  was  salivated  and  in  any 
thing  but  a  pleasant  situation  to  be 
travelling. 

I  went  out  to  watch  the  mules,  three 
miles  distant,  and  lay  down  and  slept 
in  the  boiling  sun  for  two  hours,  the 
balance  of  the  day  I  spent  in  reading 


of  a  dfoUt 


in 


a  "tract,"  and  the  works  of  Tom 
Moore. 

In  the  evening  I  returned  to  the 
camp  and  was  rejoiced  to  find  Haines 
much  better,  yet  not  able  to  ride  in  the 
waggon  as  usual,  therefore  Dr.  Stone 
and  myself,  made  him  a  swinging  bed 
by  which  he  will  be  enabled  to  ride 
with  a  degree  of  ease. 

Early  Monday  morning  we  brought 
our  mules  from  grass  and  made  ready 
to  travell,  in  order  to  get  ahead  of  the 
many  Companies  which  camped  near 
us,  but  it  availed  little  as  some  of  the 
ox  trains  were  moving  before  us. 
We  drove  nine  miles  when  we  reached 
a  small  creek,  the  waters  of  which  are 
strongly  impregnated  with  Alkali,  and 
is  quite  dangerous  to  give  cattle. 

We  drove  three  miles,  when  we 
stopped  and  fed  our  mules  on  very 
ordinary  grass.  Rested  about  three 
hours  and  again  drove  ten  miles  to  the 
west  bank  of  Little  Sandy,  where  we 
found  many  Companies  in  camp. 
Grass  was  very  good  about  three 
miles  from  the  ford.  Haines  was 
much  better.  Drove  twenty  three 
miles. 

We  rose  late  on  Tuesday  morning 
and  drove  six  miles  to  Big  Sandy, 
where  we  camped  untill  four  o'clock 
P.  M.  in  order  to  feed  the  mules  well, 
before  travelling  what  is  called  the 
"Stretch,"  a  distance  of  thirty  five 
miles,  without  water  or  grass. 

I  met  two  persons  in  an  Ohio  train 
from  Franklin  County,  Pennsylvania, 
named  Price  and  Kilgo.  They  were 
acquainted  with  Genl.  Deems  and 
family  of  Elizabethtown,  East  Ten- 
nessee, and  made  many  inquiries  re- 
specting the  family.  Also  met  a  man 
and  lady  from  Williamsporte,  Penna., 
named  Brown,  who  appeared  much 
pleased  to  see  me,  as  I  was  from  Cen- 
tre County,  since  them,  and  therefore 
enabled  to  give  some  "news"  of  their 
friends  and  acquaintances.  They 
also  told  me  of  the  whereabouts  of 
Major  Robt.  Beck,  and  the  Messrs. 
Hustens,  who  were  en  route  for  Cali- 
fornia. 


We  left  the  bank  of  Sandys  at  four 
o'clock  and  drove  a  steady  but  brisk 
gate  for  twenty  miles,  when  we  halted 
a  few  minutes,  again  resuming  our 
march  we  travelled  about  five  miles 
when  we  met  a  regular  of  the  U.  S., 
returning  from  Green  River,  who  re- 
ported that  the  river  was  twenty 
eight  miles  distant,  instead  of  ten  as 
we  thought,  relying  upon  "Weir"  as 
guide,  who  we  find  very  incorrect. 
Having  travelled  untill  daylight  we 
lay  by  for  three  hours  in  the  fourth 
long  hollow  we  found  on  the  road  and 
which  we  thought  to  be  thirty  five 
miles  from  Sandy.  Again  we  set  out 
and  travelling  over  very  rough  road, 
we  reach  the  third  ferry  on  the  river, 
in  about  seventeen  miles,  making  the 
"Stretch"  in  fifty  two  miles.  The 
ferry  where  the  road  first  finds  the 
river  is  not  a  good  one  and  Dr.  Stone 
and  I  rode  down  to  a  more  conven- 
ient one  about  three  miles  from  the 
one  lower  down  and  the  one  used  by 
the  Government.  We  drove  down  a 
very  steep  decline  to  the  river's  edge, 
where  we  pitched  camp  and  swam  our 
mules  across  to  fine  grass,  about  five 
miles  from  the  ferry.  Many  wag- 
gons were  on  the  bank  waiting  their 
turn  to  cross  and  we  did  not  expect 
to  cross  untill  the  following  clay  as 
there  were  forty  two  before  us. 

On  Friday  morning  while  lying  in 
the  grass  near  the  mules.  Mason 
called  and  when  he  came  up  he  gave 
us  the  cheering  news  that  our  wag- 
gon was  across  the  river  and  we  could 
drive  off  immediately.  We  therefore 
drove  in  our  mules  and  soon  were 
hitched  and  on  the  road,  though  not 
untill  six  or  seven  ox  trains  were  be- 
fore us.  The  road  lay  down  the  river 
for  three  miles  when  it  diverges  to 
the  right  and  ascends  a  very  steep 
hill.  From  one  to  two  miles  we  were 
crossing  deep  Sandy  hills,  when  we 
met  the  road  from  the  lower  ferry, 
coursing  toward  the  hills  about  two 
miles  distant.  The  hill  was  very 
steep  and  sandy.  So  much  so  that  it 
was  with  difficulty  we  reached  the 
summit.  For  several  miles  we  om- 


Arrnua  ilj?  plains  ia  ilj? 


tinned  to  cross  steep  hills  untill  we 
descended  to  a  fine  creek,  up  which 
we  travelled  four  miles,  where  we 
found  grass  very  good,  near  the  bank 
of  the  creek.  Many  camps  are  in  the 
valley  and  while  on  guard  I  thought 
the  fires  quite  cheerful  to  a  shivering 
watch-man.  That  evening  Dr.  Stone 
and  myself  called  on  'Miss  Elizabeth 
White,  of  Pleasant  Hill,  Van  Buren 
County,  Mo.,  but  formerly  of  Suli- 
van  Co.,  E.  Tennessee.  Her  parents 
are  emigrating  at  an  advanced  age 
with  her  quite  young.  She  is  quite 
pretty  and  very  agreeable  and  inter- 
esting young  lady.  It  afforded  me 
much  pleasure  to  meet  her  and 
equally  as  much  pain  to  leave  the 
train  she  is  travelling  in. 

Friday  we  brought  in  the  mules  at 
an  early  hour  and  soon  were  ready  to 
travel  when  we  found  ourselves  in  ad- 
vance of  all  the  trains  in  the  valley. 
We  found  the  road  very  hilly,  more 
of  the  hills  were  steeper  than  any  we 
have  had  on  the  route. 

We  drove  sixteen  miles  to  the  fine 
spring  on  the  top  of  a  hill,  where  the 
grass  presented  fine  feeding  for  the 
mules. 

While  we  were  grassing  our  stock, 
several  trains  appeared  on  the  hills, 
two  miles  behind  us,  which  set  us  to 
work  to  gearing  and  just  started 
when  Miss  White  acompanied  by  a 
young  gallant  of  the  train  rode  up 
and  informed  us  that  their  train  was 
near  by. 

She  rode  along  with  us,  entertain- 
ing us  very  agreeably,  for  three  miles, 
when  she  stopped,  to  wait  for  the 
Company. 

We  drove  within  two  miles  of  the 
base  of  the  mountain,  where  we  found 
excellent  grass  and  wood,  but  not 
very  good  water.  Made  twenty  two 
miles 

Saturday,  2ist.  I  rose  much  re- 
freshed, after  a  fine  sleep  for  one  en- 
tire night,  the  first  I  have  had  for  five 
nights.  We  did  not  start  early  as 
usual,  yet  left  at  six  o'clock  and  drove 
twelve  miles  to  the  summit  of  the 
dividing  ridge,  where  we  stopped  to 


feed.  The  road  lay  over  very  steep 
hills  and  across  the  creek,  known  as 
Thomas  Fork,  which  winds  through 
a  narrow  but  beautiful  valley,  covered 
with  fragrant  grass. 

For  the  first  time,  to-day,  we  have 
had  quite  a  pleasant  shower  of  rain, 
which  seemed  to  lay  the  dust  on  the 
road. 

After  crossing  "Thomas  Fork," 
and  ascending  the  very  steep  hill,  the 
surrounding  country  presented  a 
most  striking  contrast  to  the  barren 
hills  we  have  been  passing,  for  the  last 
two  or  three  days.  Lines  of  fine  tim- 
ber were  stretched  near  shallow  rav- 
ines to  our  right,  while  the  gentle  un- 
dulations of  the  plain  covered  with  a 
rich  verdure  rested  on  our  left. 

While  resting  at  noon  a  fine  shower 
came  up  which  added  a  still  brighter 
hue  to  the  fine  bed  of  green  grass. 

We  started  and  drove  ten  miles  to 
the  side  of  a  hill  just  above  a  small 
creek.  The  road  in  the  afternoon 
was  decidedly  the  hilliest  and  most 
difficult  to  pass  that  we  have  had, 
since  we  left  Independence.  We 
tried  to  reach  the  river  but  the  bad 
road  rendered  it  impossible. 

Sunday  the  insufficiency  of  grass  at 
our  camp  rendered  it  necessary  for 
u:-  to  drive  to  the  river,  where  we 
could  do  justice  to  our  stock  and  our- 
selves. The  road  winds  clown  a  steep 
decline  for  some  considerable  dis- 
tance where  it  takes  a  hierh  but  level 
ridge,  which  leads  to  the  river.  The 
river  bottom  is  about  one  half  a  mile 
wide  and  is  covered  with  the  finest 
of  grass,  consisting  of  Herd.  Timothy 
and  Blue  Grass,  also  wild  flax  is 
found  in  great  abundance  where  the 
road  first  reaches  the  river. 

In  the  afternoon  a  very  hard  rain 
came  over  the  hills,  which  completely 
demolished  the  high  grass. 

Dr.  Stone  devoted  the  greater  part 
of  the  evening  to  baking  Apple  Pies, 
which  were  a  very  great  luxury  with 
us,  on  the  plains.  Now  we  can  ap- 
preciate the  fine  dinners  set  before  us 
at  our  homes  and  must  acknowledge 


nf  a 


in 


that  we  were  too  choice  where  so 
much  was  to  be  had.  Eight  miles. 

We  set  out  early  Monday  morning 
from  our  camp  and  drove  fourteen 
miles  to  the  bend  of  the  river,  where 
the  -ou  !  leaves  it  for  five  miles.  We 
crossed  a  fine  large  creek  that  morn- 
ing five  times,  which  is  very  deep. 
The  road  is  level  and  in  fine  order. 

At  our  camp  at  noon  many  trains 
were  in  advance  of  us  and  in  sight  all 
of  which  we  will  overhaul  soon. 

At  three  o'clock  we  set  out  and 
travelled  five  miles  around  to  reach 
the  ford  of  the  river  which  empties 
into  Bear,  near  this  point.  After 
crossing,  the  road  takes  up  the  hill 
and  does  not  strike  the  river  again 
for  five  miles.  In  the  distance  there 
are  one  or  two  bad  hills,  equally  as 
.^teep  as  any  we  have  crossed.  Also 
a  fine  creek,  about  one  mile  from  the 
river,  where  we  camped  for  the  night. 
The  valley  is  small  but  quite  beauti- 
ful, at  the  head  some  twenty  miles 
from  us  there  is  located  the  largest 
Indian  village  of  the  Sknake  Tribe, 
containing  two  thousand  persons. 

Travelled  twenty  miles. 

We  set  out  Tuesday  morning  be- 
fore any  of  the  trains  in  the  valley, 
and  crossed  to  the  river's  bottom,  dis- 
tance four  miles,  \vhere  we  found  ex- 
cellent road.  Passed  this  morning  a 
few  lodges  of  the  Sknakes',  situated 
near  the  margin  of  the  river  to  the 
left  side  of  the  road.  Also  saw  three 
traders  here,  one  of  whom  has  a  wife 
and  children  and  is  of  the  Mormon 
faith,  the  other  is  from  White  City, 
Tennessee.  After  driving  twelve 
miles  we  rested  near  a  beautiful 
stream  of  mountain  water,  for  a  few 
hours. 

Again  set  out  and  crossing  a  num- 
ber of  small  fine  watered  streams,  we 
drove  about  ten  miles  to  excellent 
grass  about  one  mile  to  the  right  of 
the  road  on  a  fine  stream.  The  fine 
grass  induced  us  to  believe  our  mules 
perfectly  safe,  without  being 
"staked,"  but  we  discovered  our  mis- 
take about  ten  o'clock,  when  we  were 
aroused  by  the  running  of  the  whole 


stock  and  the  cries  of  the  guard.  All 
immediately  gave  chase  and  in  about 
one  and  a  half  miles,  one  of  the  Steels 
and  myself,  succeeded  in  out-running 
them  and  turning  them  toward  the 
camp.  I  had  run  the  whole  distance 
in  my  stocking  feet,  without  hat,  coat 
or  jacket  and  at  my  fastest,  so  when  I 
found  myself  ahead  I  was  nearly 
"done  out."  It  was  with  difficulty  I 
could  draw  my  breath,  and  the  excru- 
ciating pain  in  my  breast,  accompa- 
nied by  the  sickness  of  the  stomach 
alarmed  me  no  little,  as  to  the  results. 
I  was  little  fit  to  stand  guard  in  a  few 
hours  after  returning  to  camp,  much 
less  the  part  of  the  preceeding  watch, 
as  I  \vas  awakened  by  Taylor  one 
hour  before  the  time,  through  mis- 
take. My  partners  did  not  discover 
the  mistake  untill  too  late  and  the  fact 
of  their  doing  so,  very  inadvertently 
induced  us  to  stand  untill  the  expira- 
tion of  our  regular  time. 

At  seven  o'clock  Wednesday,  we 
found  ourselves  ready  to  start  and 
soon  reached  the  road,  which  run  up 
the  hill  some  distance  from  the  river, 
crossing  many  small  creeks.  We 
drove  twelve  miles  for  noon  feed,  to 
very  ordinary  grass,  near  or  rather 
between  two  small  branches  running 
from  the  mountains  to  the  river. 

Again  hitched  up  and  drove  eight 
miles  to  the  bank  of  the  river  about 
one  half  mile  east  of  the  Steamboat 
Spring,  and  next  one  mile  from  the 
Soda  or  Beer  Springs.  I  visited  the 
Soda  Springs,  about  one  mile  north 
of  the  road  and  found  the  water  effer- 
vescing in  a  hole  some  three  feet  deep 
in  a  solid  rock.  The  water  tastes  ex- 
actly like  Seidlitz  Powder,  and  acts 
with  the  bowels  in  the  same  way. 
They  are  quite  a  curiosity  and  one 
may  consider  himself  well  repaid  for 
the  trouble  of  visiting  them.  The 
Steamboat  Spring  is  a  few  feet  of  the 
river's  edge,  and  is  named  from  the 
resemblance  it  has  to  the  puffing  of  a 
Steamboat,  though  to  me  it  has  the 
resemblance  more  to  the  acting  of 
water  heated  in  a  kettle.  The  water 
is  quite  warm  and  unfit  for  use. 


3fn«rn?ij  Armu0 


Thursday  we  left  camp  quite  late 
and  drove  to  the  turn  of  the  road  to 
Oregon  via  Fort  Hall,  where  we  con- 
cluded to  take  a  left  hand  trail  which 
would  carry  us  through  the  moun- 
tains to  the  St.  Mary's  river,  thereby 
cutting  off  many  miles. 

The  road  passed  near  an  old  crater, 
which  at  once  accounted  for  the  vol- 
canic appearance  of  the  country 
around  us.  After  leaving  the  Ore- 
gon road,  no  water  is  to  be  found  on 
the  road  for  less  than  fourteen  miles, 
where  there  is  a  stream  of  exceeding 
cold  water,  where  it  would  be  nice  for 
all  emigrants  to  rest  as  fine  grass  is 
on  the  surrounding  hills. 

We  rested  a  few  hours  and  then 
drove  four  miles  to  a  still  larger 
stream,  where  we  found  excellent 
grass.  Many  Indians  were  in  camp 
this  evening  wanting  to  trade.  Here 
for  the  first  time  I  witnessed  the  filthy 
practice  among  them,  so  often  men- 
tioned by  travellers,  that  of  eating 
their  vermin.  They  pick  them  from 
their  heads  and  cooly  thrust  them  in- 
to their  mouths ;  after  witnessing  this 
I  could  not  speak  or  suffer  them  to 
approach  me. 

We  set  out  early  Friday  and  drove 
twelve  miles  before  noon  to  a  fine 
branch,  about  three  miles  from  camp 
we  struck  the  creek  we  camped  on, 
where  we  watered,  as  we  would  not 
find  water  for  eight  miles,  and  were 
very  agreeably  surprised  to  find  a  fine 
spring  at  the  foot  of  the  hill. 

While  approaching  the  Spring,  a 
man  came  running  into  camp  at  full 
speed,  shouting  at  the  top  of  his  voice, 
every  jump,  "Indians."  Some  thirty 
or  forty  rifles  were  down  and  that 
many  men  running  in  the  direction  of 
the  persuers  who  only  numbered  one 
man,  who  had  galloped  in  the  direc- 
tion of  the  White  man  to  shake  hands 
with  him.  A  small  party  of  Panacks 
were  near  the  hills  across  the  swamp. 
The  road  was  very  good,  no  difficulty 
whatever  in  passing.  We  drove  ten 
miles  to  good  water,  making  twenty 
miles  in  all. 


to  %  f  artftr 


Saturday,  28th.  The  number  of 
trains  near  us  compelled  us  to  start 
early  and  crossing  only  one  water 
course,  we  drove  fifteen  miles  to 
another  fine  one,  where  the  grass  was 
good  and  we  concluded  to  remain  for 
the  day.  In  the  evening  I  washed 
my  dirty  clothes,  which  is  the  most 
disagreeable  part  of  the  trip. 

The  fine  grass  and  water  and  the 
excessive  fatigue  of  our  mules,  to- 
gether with  our  inclination  to  rest  on 
Sunday,  readily  determined  us  to  re- 
main at  our  Camp  untill  Monday. 

The  day  was  quite  sultry  and  I 
spent  the  most  of  it  sleeping.  Many 
trains  were  passing  which  would  not 
reach  water  that  night,  as  an  Indian 
informed  me  it  was  ten  miles  from 
water  to  water,  ^nnrrnft  LibniO 

We  set  out  early  Monday  morning 
and  found  the  road  crossed  one  hill 
and  then  turning  short  off  to  the  right, 
ascends  for  several  miles  very  grad- 
ually, when  a  short  but  steep  place 
presented  itself.  Soon  we  crossed  it 
and  found  ourselves  on  the  summit 
of  a  very  steep  hill,  which  we  found 
quite  difficult  to  descend. 

We  crossed  many  fine  valleys,  but 
did  not  reach  water  untill  four 
o'clock,  when  we  found  five  fine 
springs.  There  had  been  near  two 
hundred  waggons  at  this  ground  the 
night  before  and  the  grass  was  eaten 
off  short,  so  we  took  our  mules  to 
grass  about  one  mile  from  camp. 
Travelled  twenty  seven  miles. 

Set  out  quite  early  Tuesday  morn- 
ing and  drove  six  miles,  where  we 
found  that  there  was  no  water  for 
fifteen  miles,  so  we  filled  our  vessels, 
but  had  not  gone  far  when  we  learned 
that  a  fine  creek  was  five  miles  in  ad- 
vance of  us,  where  unhitched  and  fed 
our  mules.  Again  set  out  and  drove 
down  the  ravine  ten  miles  where  we 
found  fine  grass  on  the  bank  of  the 
creek.  Many  springs  are  to  be  found 
on  the  road  at  distances  ranging  from 
three  to  five  miles  apart. 

Wednesday  we  set  out  early  and 
drove  fifteen  miles  to  a  small  but  fine 
watered  creek,  for  noon  feed.  Four 


Hmrnra  nf  a 


in  "3Fnrig-mtu> 


miles  from  camp  we  left  the  ravine 
or  cannon  we  had  been  travelling  in 
for  two  days  and  struck  across  the 
uplands,  twelve  miles  to  water. 

We  set  out  again  after  three  hours 
rest  and  drove  across  a  dry,  sandy 
and  barren  piece  of  land,  five  miles  to 
a  fine  creek,  rather  the  Raft  River, 
then  went  up  the  creek  three  miles, 
and  crossed  where  we  camped  near 
the  junction  of  the  Fort  Hall  and 
Cut-off  roads  Making  twenty  one 
miles,  and  one  hundred  and  twenty 
miles  on  the  distance  of  the  Cut-off. 
The  road  most  certainly  is  in  a  more 
direct  course  and  will  also  compare 
with  the  road  via  Fort  Hall,  for  many 
miles  it  is  a  little  south  west  in  its 
direction  and  is  in  fine  order  lying  in 
cannons  where  nature  has  done 
everything  for  a  natural  road.  There 
are  but  two  hills  on  the  entire  road 
that  are  bad  ones,  they  are  not  so 
troublesome  as  those  on  the  Sublet 
Cut-off  though.  Taking  everything 
together  the  road  is  excellent  and  will 
save  to  the  emigrants  at  least  three 
days  travell  with  teams.  We  passed 
through  in  six  days  travell  while 
manv  trains  were  twelve  days  in  go- 
ing by  Fort  Hall. 

At  sunrise  on  Thursday  morning 
we  commenced  our  days  journey  and 
when  we  reached  the  foot  of  the 
dividing  ridge,  between  Humbolt  and 
Raft,  we  learned  that  there  was  no 
grass  or  water  for  twelve  miles,  so 
we  concluded  to  stay  at  the  creek 
where  three  fine  but  small  springs  put 
out  and  feed  our  mules.  We  again 
set  out  and  commenced  the  gradual 
ascent  of  the  ridge  and  in  three  hours 
were  at  the  summit,  then  turning  a 
more  westerly  course,  we  descended 
as  gradually  as  we  had  ascended,  into 
a  fine  vallev  where  we  found  plenty 
of  water  at  three  places,  from  two 
to  four  miles  apart.  The  "Dividing 
Ridge"  bears  a  striking  resemblance 
to  the  famous  South  Pass  in  the 
Rocky  Mountains.  I  found  small 
particles  of  Gold  in  one  of  the  creeks 
we  crossed,  but  think  that  no  great 


quantities    are    to    be    found.     Drove 
eighteen  miles. 

Friday  we  made  a  late  start  in  the 
morning  and  drove  ten  miles  into  a 
valley  where  we  found  water  to  the 
right  hand  of  the  road.  The  grass  is 
excellent  and  well  suited  for  horses. 

Again  set  out  and  drove  eight  miles 
to  the  head  of  the  creek  that  puts  out 
from  the  Narrows.  The  road  is  very 
dusty  and  the  day  was  exceedingly 
warm.  Just  as  you  leave  the  valley 
and  enter  the  Narrows,  you  will  find  a 
fine  large  spring.  While  at  this  place 
three  waggons  of  the  Dayton  Ohio 
Company  came  up,  having  travelled 
via  Salt  Lake,  of  which  they  speak 
in  glowing  terms. 

Mc-Clure,  Marrot,  Edmondson, 
Flint,  Broadwell  and  Tingley  are 
among  the  number  and  will  travell 
with  us. 

Saturday,  4th,  of  August.  In  the 
morning  we  set  out  early  and  crossed 
the  ridge  to  Goose  creek,  about  six 
miles. 

The  road  is  very  bad  and  at  one  hill 
we  were  compelled  to  let  the  waggon 
down  with  ropes.  We  travelled 
about  seven  miles  down  the  creek, 
where  we  stopped  to  feed  our  mules 
near  where  the  Dayton  Company 
grazed.  In  the  afternoon  we  started 
and  had  not  driven  more  than  three 
miles  when  we  broke  the  hounds  of 
the  waggon  in  the  crossing  of  a  rut 
or  gully,  near  a  Sulpher  Spring. 
About  two  hours  was  lost  in  repair- 
ing them,  and  the  road  being  in  fine 
order,  we  drove  five  miles  where  we 
reached  the  Dayton  Company  and 
camped  for  the  night  on  the  banks  of 
the  creek. 

Sunday  being  the  dav  of  rest,  we 
concluded  to  remain  at  our  camp  un- 
till  Monday.  The  Dayton  Compum 
started  at  daylight  and  we  had  to  do 
the  same  Monday,  in  order  to  over- 
take them  this  week.  The  day  is 
quite  breezy  and  threatens  rain.  We 
all  heartily  wish  it  may  fall  in  tor- 
rents. 


Inurtmj  Arrnsu  tlj?  {Ihtuta  tn  tfj?  flarifu 


Monday  at  two  o'clock  in  the  morn- 
ing the  mules  were  brought  in  and 
one  hour  after  we  were  ready  to  trav- 
ell.  We  had  only  driven  about  three 
miles  when  the  waggon  belonging  to 
Steel  and  Brothers  (who  have  been 
travelling  with  us  from  a  short  dis- 
tance this  side  of  Ft.  Laramie)  cap- 
sized in  crossing  a  deep  ravine  full  of 
water.  The  driver  drove  too  far  to 
the  right  and  all  fell  off  a  bank,  four 
feet  into  the  water.  Fortunately 
nothing  was  hurt  and  a  short  time 
only  elapsed  before  all  was  restored 
to  proper  order  and  the  waggon 
crossed  by  hand. 

We  travelled  up  this  creek,  ten 
miles,  passing  on  the  way  many  ox 
trains,  when  we  left  it  and  com- 
menced a  gradual  ascent  for  several 
miles  on  a  barren  country.  No  grass 
was  any  where  to  be  found  and  less 
water.  This  state  of  things  com- 
pelled us  to  move  on  slowly  untill  we 
should  reach  water,  which  we  did 
about  thirteen  miles  from  the  Goose 
Creek.  The  springs  were  of  the  pur- 
est water,  but  not  cool  as  their  ap- 
pearance would  indicate,  yet  not  hot 
enough  to  entitle  them  to  the  name 
given  them — Hot  Springs.  As  the 
grass  at  the  springs  had  been  eaten 
up,  we  drove  five  miles  to  the  four 
springs  on  the  left  of  the  road,  where 
grass  was  very  poor.  The  water  is 
very  cool  and  refreshing.  Many 
companies  were  near  us  that  night. 
We  passed  one~  hundred  and  three 
teams,  going  twenty  eight  miles. 

Tuesday.  Set  out  and  drove  twenty 
three  miles  to  good  grass  and  water, 
where  our  mules  fed  themselves  to 
their  satisfaction.  Again  drove  in 
the  afternoon  fourteen  miles  to  a  fine 
spring  near  a  Companv  from  Arkan- 
sas, in  which  was  Dr.  Powell  of  East 
Tennessee.  Also  met  with  a  young 
man  formerly  of  Burk  County,  North 
Carolina,  who  was  nursing  a  young 
man  just  at  deaths  door,  with  con- 
sumption, named  Due  Chandler  of 
Yancey  County,  North  Carolina,  and 
a  son  of  Lew  Chandler  of  that  County 
and  State. 


He  was  attacked  with  Cholera  and 
the  exposure  brought  a  relapse  and 
finally  turned  to  Typhoid  Fever  and 
Consumption,  which  will  result  in  his 
death  before  many  hours.  He  was 
insensible  and  could  not  observe  any 
person.  We  drove  twenty  seven 
miles. 

Wednesday  we  set  out  at  sunrise 
and  drove  to  the  head  of  the  valley, 
about  ten  miles,  where  there  is  a  fine 
spring  and  water  for  the  stock  and 
where  we  supplied  ourselves  with  a 
sufficiency  to  do  us  across  the  hills 
eight  miles  to  a  branch  of  St.  Mary's 
river,  where  we  found  a  fine  cold 
spring  and  excellent  grass. 

After  resting  two  hours  we  again 
set  out  and  enterin^  the  Cannon,  we 
crossed  the  creek  nine  times,  many  of 
the  places  ^eing  exceedingly  difficult 
to  pass.  The  ox  trains  being  very 
slow  in  crossing,  detained  us  till  after 
night  in  reaching  the  valley  where  we 
found  a  company  from  Tennessee, 
consisting  of  Henley,  Bagby,  Love- 
less, Stone  and  Sevier  and  Russell, 
who  kindly  directed  us  to  the  best 
grass.  Having  crossed  the  creek  and 
the  worst  part  of  the  crossing  after 
night,  we  broke  a  bolt  connecting  the 
tongue  of  the  waggon  to  the  hounds. 
Made  twenty  eight  miles. 

Thursday  we  made  a  late  start,  ow- 
ing to  the  fatigue  of  ourselves  and 
mules,  yet  in  plenty  of  time  to  over- 
take our  Tennessee  friends,  in  ten 
miles,  near  water  and  good  grass, 
where  we  stopped  to  feed.  Here  Mr. 
Sevier  gave  us  some  yeast,  for  bread, 
which  will  be  a  treat.  Again  set  out 
and  drove  ten  miles  to  St.  Marys 
River,  coming  in  from  the  North  and 
which  has  some  flow  of  water. 

The  sfrass  in  the  valley  is  of  the 
finest  and  most  nutritious  kind,  but 
water  is  scarce.  Distance,  during  the 
dav — twenty  miles. 

Friday  we  left  camp  late  and  drove 
ten  miles  to  a  fine  camping  place  near 
the  river.  Crossing  the  hills  twice 
to-day,  neither  more  than  one  mile 
stretch,  across  the  hill.  The  road  is 
very  dusty  and  the  mules  quite  fa- 


nf  a  (into 


in 


tigued.  The  appearance  of  the  coun- 
try is  as  barren  as  one  could  expect. 
Drove  twenty  miles. 

Saturday,  nth.  In  the  morning 
after  the  trains  had  started  I  re- 
mained at  camp  untill  the  waggons 
from  Dayton  Ohio  came  up,  when  I 
was  not  a  little  surprised  to  find  Wm. 
H.  Smith,  of  Dayton,  in  the  Com- 
pany. He  was  an  Engineer  on  the 
Miami  Canal,  when  I  contracted  ac- 
quaintance with  him.  He  informed 
me  that  the  Sidney  Company  was  be- 
hind us,  having  taken  the  Ft.  Hall 
road.  I  was  sorry  to  learn  this,  as  I 
had  anticipated  much  pleasure  in  see- 
ing them.  After  a  very  agreeable 
confab  with  Air.  Smith,  I  left  him  and 
rode  forward  to  overtake  the  Com- 
pany, which  I  succeeded  in  doing  in 
two  hours,  having  travelled  twelve 
miles  in  the  morning. 

After  resting  three  hours  we  set 
out  and  drove  eight  miles  to  fine  grass 
near  the  mouth  of  Thomas's  Fork,  of 
St.  Marys,  where  we  remained  untill 
morning.  Drove  twenty  miles. 

Sunday,  I2th  of  August  1849.  The 
evening  before  we  had  determined  to 
travell  on  Sunday,  in  order  to  keep  in 
advance  of  the  ox  trains  we  are 
already  ahead  of,  but  the  fine  grass 
near  by  renders  it  a  matter  of  neces- 
sity to  suffer  the  mules  to  graze.  We 
were  this  day  invited  to  attend 
preaching  at  the  camp  of  the  "Union 
Band,"  of  Illinois,  about  one  mile 
above  us  on  the  creek.  This  was  an 
opportunity  that  one  had  not  m^t 
with  lately  and  we  very  gladly  availed 
ourselves  of  it.  The  preacher  was 
the  Rev.  Mr.  Rumston,  of  the  Metho- 
dist Denomination,  but  from  his  ser- 
mon, one  would  be  greatly  puzzled 
to  discern  the  difference  between  his 
doctrine  and  that  held  by  the  Univer- 
salists. 

He  argued  that  "Adam  and  the 
Old  Lady"  did  not  die  a  Spiritual 
death,  when  they  transgressed,  but 
only  disobeyed  the  Commandments 
yet  would  have  suffered  a  temporal 
death,  had  not  God  promised  that 
"the  sin  of  woman  should  bruise  the 


serpents  head,"  thereby  attempting  to 
prove  that  every  person  from  Adam 
down  to  the  present  day  had  been 
saved,  "if  not  his  text  is  false,"  be- 
cause it  pronounces  him  a  Savior  of 
all  man-kind.  Taking  the  sermon 
and  the  preacher  altogether  (for  that 
is  the  way  we  come  to  any  conclusion 
on  the  plains)  it  was  a  very  poor  ex- 
cuse, even  for  the  season  and  the  Lat- 
itude. I  had  not  patience  to  hear  him 
out,  and  left  the  place  about  one  half 
hour  before  he  finished.  This  is  the 
second  Minister  I  have  seen  En  Route 
for  the  new  El  Dorado  and  I  have 
lost  confidence  in  them  in  exact  pro- 
portion to  my  acquaintance  with 
them. 

Gold  is  there  only  topic  and  bears  a 
great  contrast  to  the  teaching  of  our 
Lord  Jesus  Christ.  The  day  was  one 
of  exceeding  pleasure,  just  sufficient 
breeze  afloat  to  make  it  comfortable 
and  the  sun  warm  and  agreeable, 
though  not  sultry  and  hot.  Many  ox 
teams  passed  and  went  slowly  on. 

Monday.  We  set  out  at  sunrise 
and  travelled  eleven  miles  to  grass 
near  the  river.  About  four  miles 
from  camp  we  came  to  the  fork  of 
the  road,  where  we  kept  the  left  hand, 
down  the  river,  crossing  in  the  mean 
time  the  river  three  times  at  good 
fords.  Passed  the  Dayton  Company, 
to  which  Mr.  McCorkle  belonged  and 
with  whom  I  rode  about  five  miles 
and  talked  of  Ohio  and  my  friends. 
At  noon  a  Cheyenne  Indian  came  into 
camp  and  behaved  very  friendly. 

He  showed  us  the  substitute  for  the 
"Punk  and  Flint,"  which  was  a  piece 
of  dried  Beech  wood  inserted  in  the 
end  of  an  arrow,  which  was  set  in  a 
hole  to  fit  it  in  a  piece  of  wood  of 
same  kind  and  then  by  friction,  fire 
was  set  to  dry  earth,  which  was  first 
put  in  a  notch  at  the  side  of  the  hole. 
Again  drove  ten  miles  to  the  hill 
where  the  road  turns  to  the  right  and 
strikes  the  river  in  twenty  miles. 
About  ten  miles  from  this  turn  of  the 
road  will  be  found  several  fine 
springs,  but  little  grass  for  stock. 


3l0trnu>g 


in  tlj?  Jtartftr 


Early  Tuesday  morning  the  mules 
were  driven  in  and  hitched  up  in 
order  we  might  have  the  early  part 
of  the  day  to  cross  the  "Stretch." 
Just  as  we  were  starting  one  of  our 
Company  took  all  his  baggage  out  of 
the  waggon,  with  the  determination 
of  leaving  us.  Nothing  was  said  to 
induce  him  to  remain,  as  he  was  a 
very  disagreeable  man,  though  one 
lost  much  by  suffering  him  to  leave 
us  after  coming  so  far.  He  and 
Haines  had  disagreed  on  the  day  be- 
fore and  not  a  day  preceeding  that 
for  the  last  two  months,  but  he  was 
quarreling  with  some  one  of  the  Com- 
pany. None  of  us  bid  him  goode- 
bye,  as  we  had  but  a  poor  opinion  of 
him. 

We  travelled  twenty  two  miles  to 
where  we  struck  the  river  and  cross- 
ing we  continued  down  five  miles  to 
good  grass,  where  we  stopped  for  the 
night.  No  grass  is  to  be  found  near 
the  river  where  you  strike  it.  The 
dust  was  almost  unendurable  in  the 
Cannon,  having  had  nothing  to  equal 
it  since  leaving  the  states.  Drove 
twenty  seven  miles. 

Wednesday  we  set  out  at  daylight 
and  drove  fifteen  miles  for  noon  feed, 
on  the  river  bank.  The  mules  were 
very  much  j added  to-day,  caused  I 
think  by  eating  bullrushes,  on  the  pre- 
ceeding night.  Stone  drove  for  the 
first  time  since  leaving  the  states 
and  performed  the  duty  of  waggoner 
admirably. 

In  the  afternoon  we  drove  eight 
miles  to  fine  feed  on  the  river.  There 
is  no  grass  of  account  on  the  river  for 
fifteen  miles  after  the  road  from  the 
stretch.  The  Indians  are  also  very 
troublesome  here,  having  stolen  many 
cattle  from  trains  last  here. 

Eight  Indians  have  been  killed  by 
the  Whites,  in  the  last  fortnight  and 
I  much  fear  they  will  become  more 
troublesome  than  ever.  Distance  on 
Wed.  twentv  three  miles.  Met  In- 
glesby,  of  Urbana. 

At  sunrise  on  Thursday,  we  left 
camp  and  drove  thirteen  miles  to 
ordinary  grass  on  the  river.  While 


nooning  to-day  a  shower  came  up  but 
did  nothing  scarcely  but  threaten  to 
rain  very  hard.  Our  mules  are  much 
better,  but  the  horses  of  the  Messrs. 
Steele  are  still  affected,  so  much  so, 
that  it  is  with  difficulty  they  travell. 
Owing  to  these  horses  being  so  jad- 
ded,  we  did  not  start  from  noon  feed 
untill  three  o'clock  and  then  drove 
twelve  miles,  to  good  grass.  The 
Messrs.  Steele  did  not  reach  our  camp 
that  evening,  therefore  we  are  alone, 
and  will  not  have  them  with  us  on  the 
end  of  our  journey.  We  all  regret- 
ted leaving  them  as  they  were  careful 
and  steady  men,  and  asrreed  with  us 
in  our  travelling  better  than  any  we 
have  met  on  the  road,  but  we  could 
not  think  of  loosing  time  in  waiting 
for  their  horses  to  recruit. 

Late  Friday  morning  we  started 
and  drove  twelve  miles  for  noon  rest. 
The  country  is  very  barren  and  only 
in  a  few  places  is  any  grass  to  'be 
found.  The  Rheumatism  has  re- 
turned on  me  with  greater  pain  trian 
ever,  and  it  is  with  much  difficulty 
that  I  can  walk.  After  three  hours 
rest  we  again  set  out  and  travell  thir- 
teen miles  to  very  good  grass,  near 
the  pass  in  the  hills. 

Saturday,  i8th.  We  made  a  very 
late  start  and  drove  through  the  pass 
in  the  hills,  about  five  miles,  where 
there  is  no  grass  or  water. 

At  eleven  o'clock  we  reached  fine 
grass,  after  travelling  twelve  miles. 
Grass  is  very  scarce  on  the  part  of 
the  road  we  passed  over.  We  let  our 
mules  eat  to  their  content  and  then 
set  out  and  drove  six  miles,  near  a 
large  train,  where  we  were  so  fortu- 
nate as  to  find  excellent  grass. 

Sunday  morning  we  concluded  to 
rest  untill  two  o'clock,  when  we 
would  drive  a  short  distance.  The 
day  was  beautiful,  but  the  night  was 
exceedingly  cold,  with  a  heavy  frost 
on  the  ground.  At  the  time  agreed 
on  we  were  ready  to  leave  camp  and 
soon  were  off  at  a  fine  rate,  Dr.  Stone 
driving.  He  drove  eight  miles,  when 
we  stopped  near  two  waggons  from 
Missouri,  one  of  the  men  formerly 


ifemmrs  nf  a 


in 


from  Washington  County,  East  Ten- 
nessee. 

The  grass  is  very  good  across  the 
river,  but  wood  is  unusually  scarce 
and  the  ford  is  very  deep  and  difficult 
to  cross. 

The  Evening  much  resembled  the 
quiet  Sunday  Evening  that  we  were 
accustomed  to  have  at  home  with  our 
friends.  We  often  think  of  home  and 
the  many  friends  we  have  left,  but  at 
no  time  does  the  feeling  make  such 
an  impression  on  one's  mind  as  on  a 
beautiful  Sabbath  Evening,  when  the 
same  stillness  prevails  over  every 
thing.  We  often  wish  ourselves  at 
home  and  with  the  permission  of 
Providence,  we  will  gratify  that  wish 
at  no  very  distant  day.  at  least  so 
soon  as  we  can  in  a  measure  fill  our 
pockets  with  the  "Dust." 

Monday  we  drove  twelve  miles  and 
found  excellent  grass  on  the  oppo- 
site side  of  the  river  where  we  fed 
our  mules  three  hours.  Then  started 
and  drove  six  miles  to  very  poor 
grass,  but  we  could  not  do  better,  and 
we  must  be  content.  Distance  eigh- 
teen miles. 

Tuesday.  Our  long  journey  is 
nearing  the  end  and  with  feverish  ex- 
citement we  sleep  and  eat. 

We  started  early  and  drove  four 
miles  to  the  forks  of  the  road,  where 
we  took  the  right  bank,  leading  over 
the  hills  fourteen  miles  to  water. 
The  road  is  very  direct  and  level. 

We  did  not  stop  at  noon  as  we  had 
no  grass  or  water,  but  drove  through 
to  the  river  and  down  the  same  two 
miles,  where  we  rested  our  stock  on 
poor  grass. 

Wednesday.  It  was  with  difficulty 
i  ,-Awe  rested,  and  on  Wednesday  at  one 
o'clock  A.  M.  we  geared  up  and 
started  on  our  road,  driving  about 
two  miles  when  we  came  to  the  forks 
of  the  road,  the  left  being  the  old  road 
to  California,  going  into  the  same 
through  the  great  pass  in  the  moun- 
tains and  the  ri<rht  leading  further 
north,  near  Mud  Lake  and  striking 
the  head  of  Feather  river.  The  ma- 
jority of  the  emigrants  having  taken 


this  road  we  concluded  to  try  the  ex- 
periment and  soon  commenced  as- 
cending the  gradual  slope  to  the  pass 
in  the  mountain.  After  travelling 
about  fourteen  miles  we  found  ex- 
cellent water  on  our  left,  about  one 
mile  from  the  road,  where  we  watered 
our  mules  and  made  a  pot  of  coffee. 
Again  set  out  and  drove  near  twenty 
miles  when  we  found  a  single  well  on 
our  right,  but  could  not  obtain  any 
for  our  mules  and  soon  we  were  off 
for  the  twenty  five  mile  stretch,  but 
had  not  travelled  more  than  one  mile 
when  we  were  very  agreeably  disap- 
pointed in  finding  five  wells  with  an 
abundant  supply  for  ourselves  and 
mules.  This  in  a  great  measure  will 
enable  us  to  cross  the  plain  easily. 
Dr.  Stone  took  the  lines  and  drove 
untill  near  daylight,  when  we  con- 
cluded to  stop  and  wait  for  daylight 
and  then  drive  untill  we  reached 
water,  how  far  distant,  no  one  knows 
certain.  After  daybreak  and  after 
we  had  a  fine  sleep  which  refreshed 
us  much  we  arose  and  geared  un  and 
drove  six  miles  to  the  first  hot  spring 
where  there  is  but  little  grass  and  the 
water  so  hot  that  no  one  can  drink  it. 
At  this  place  we  remained  three  hours 
and  then  drove  three  miles  to  next 
spring  and  grass,  where  we  rested  a 
few  hours  and  again  drove  to  what  is 
known  as  the  Last  Hot  Spring,  about 
four  miles,  making  the  distance  from 
the  forks  of  the  road  to  the  last  Hot 
Spring,  about  seventy  miles.  The 
Hot  Springs  are  a  great  curiosity, 
many  are  warm  enough  to  boil  an 
egg  in  one  minute  and  have  the  ap- 
pearance of  boiling  water.  When  the 
water  is  cooled  it  has  a  very  strong 
sulphuric  taste,  and  the  animals  will 
not  drink  it. 

At  the  last  Hot  Spring  T  was  verv 
agreeably  surprised  in  finding  Dr.  IT. 
(  '.  Mann,  late  of  Delaware.  Ohio,  for- 
merly of  Sidney,  who  T  had  not  met 
in  seven  years.  The  Dr.  was  very 
glad  to  see  me  and  he  and  I  spent 
many  hours  in  talking  of  old  tinie^  in 
Sidney. 

26 


Arrnsa 


atna  tn  life 


He  very  kindly  furnished  me  with 
directions  respecting  the  road  and  the 
probability  of  a  Cut  off  to  be  made 
by  Mr.  Myers  who  is  a  few  miles  in 
advance  of  us.  This  information  in- 
duced us  to  travell  slowly  in  order  to 
take  advantage  of  this  change  of  the 
road. 

Friday  we  set  out  and  drove  eight 
miles  when  we  found  a  road  diverg- 
ing to  the  left,  which  we  followed 
about  a  mile  and  found  a  fine  spring, 
where  we  halted  and  grazed  in  ordi- 
nary grass.  The  water  is  strongly 
impregnated  with  sulphur.  In  the 
afternoon  we  drove  twelve  miles  to 
fine  grass  and  water,  also  found 
Myers'  train,  surrounded  with  about 
two  hundred  teams,  awaiting  him  to 
make  the  Cut  Off.  At  this  place  we 
found  the  Dayton  Ohio  Company, 
that  had  left  us  on  Goose  Creek, 
three  weeks  since. 

Saturday.  We  concluded  to  re- 
main in  camp  and  recruit  our  mules 
in  the  fine  grass.  We  met  several 
friends  among  the  trains  and  we  en- 
joyed the  rest,  but  await  the  Cut  Off 
with  great  excitement. 


Sunday  found  me  quite  unwell, 
caused  by  drinking  so  much  water  at 
the  Hot  Springs.  I  was  entirely  too 
unwell  to  move  and  we  lay  still.  The 
Dayton  Company  remained  and  we 
will  drive  together,  from  here  to  the 
mines.  Broadwell  to  be  the  Captain. 

We  crossed  the  Sierra  Nevada 
Mountains  on  the  morning  of  the 
thirty  first  of  August,  and  camped 
near  a  small  creek,  about  three  miles 
from  the  summit.  The  east  side  is 
steen  and  the  road  in  places  sandy 
and  rocky.  It  is  about  one  mile  from 
the  base  to  the  summit,  by  the  road 
on  the  east  side,  and  three  quarters 
of  a  mile  on  the  west.  The  moun- 
tains are  covered  with  the  finest  pine 
timber  I  ever  saw. 

The  pressing  duties,  from  the  above 
place  to  the  mines,  prevented  me  from 
attending  to  my  memorandum  and  I 
reluctantly  gave  it  up. 

JNO.  E.  BROWN. 

NOTE:  The  travellers  were  living 
in  great  excitement  and  within  a  few 
days  the  mines  were  reached. 


^10941 


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